Climbing Gold

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140 afleveringen, van nieuw naar oud

1. Beth Rodden: A Light Through The Cracks

   6 september 2024 · 39 min

   Afspelen
   Beth Rodden started climbing in 1995, and it wasn’t long before she radically changed the sport. Within three years, she’d become the first woman to climb 5.14; within five, she established a still unrepeated free route on Yosemite’s El Capitan. Today, Beth is making waves in a different way: by leading the climbing community in difficult, vulnerable conversations. Fitz chats with Beth about her new book, A Light Through The Cracks, and what it means to live a big life. Lees meer

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2. Give and Take

   30 augustus 2024 · 43 min

   Afspelen
   After a protracted battle over bolts and sport climbing, American climbers nearly lost the ability to climb on public lands in the early 1990s. It would have completely altered the course of our sport. Fortunately, lawyer and climber Armando Menocal rose to the challenge of protecting climbing for generations to come, despite the fact that many climbers hoped he would fail. We take a peek into the early days of the Access Fund and Leici Hendrix adds perspective on the importance of local climbing organizations.
   Armando Menocal Climbing Advocacy Fund
   Originally aired in 2021. Lees meer

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3. Soviet Speed

   23 augustus 2024 · 31 min

   Afspelen
   In 1986, a rag-tag group of dirtbags including Beth Wald, Russ Clune and Todd Skinner came up with a scheme to go behind the Iron Curtain with the goal of competing in the Soviet Union's speed climbing competition. It was audacious as any cutting edge climb. Originally aired in 2021. Lees meer

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4. Alex Goes To Paris: Olympic Recap

   16 augustus 2024 · 1 uur 1 min

   Afspelen
   Adieu Paris. After a week at the Olympic games, Alex and the team reflect on an incredible moment for climbing and its brightest competitors. Lees meer

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5. Vertical Drag Race: Part 2

   9 augustus 2024 · 49 min

   Afspelen
   The Tomoa Skip. The Chinese Top. Records are falling and what is fast this year will be middle of the pack next year. For competitors Emma Hunt, Piper Kelly, and Sam Watson, they are in the midst of a golden moment for their chosen discipline. For the climbers leading the charge, what’s beyond personal bests and world records? And how will the climbers apply these incredible skills beyond the 15-meter route? Lees meer

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6. Vertical Drag Race: Part 1

   2 augustus 2024 · 41 min

   Afspelen
   Records are falling. Beta is getting tweaked. We’ve entered the sub five second era of speed climbing. The athleticism is off the charts and the format is friendly to the viewing public. Despite that, what happens on the 15 meter speed wall seems to be a sideshow to the greater climbing community. How did speed climbing arrive at this moment? We are joined by legends Hans Florine, Jacky Godoffe, and Olympians Sam Watson, Piper Kelly and Emma Hunt. Lees meer

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7. Paris Preview

   26 juli 2024 · 1 uur 1 min

   Afspelen
   Paris here we go. Today, we dive into what to expect, the stories that will define the games, and the Olympics’ impact on our sport. Plus we make our picks and learn what the deal is with Team Japan. Lees meer

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8. Great Expectations

   19 juli 2024 · 49 min

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   The weight of expectations is real. Today, Olympians Natalia Grossman and Jesse Grupper share their journey through the highs and lows of winning and losing. Even when you're winning, the road to Paris is a difficult path. Lees meer

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9. Brooke Raboutou: Paris Bound

   12 juli 2024 · 49 min

   Afspelen
   At only 23, Brooke Raboutou has established herself as one of the best climbers indoors and out. While that’s taken an extreme amount of talent and dedication, Brooke and two other Olympians, Natalia Grossman and Colin Duffy, are graduates of a groundbreaking approach to climbing created by Brooke’s mom Robyn Ebersfield-Raboutou. Climbing has a lot to teach about life. Lees meer

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10. War Games

    5 juli 2024 · 45 min

    Afspelen
    Yes, the Olympics are entertainment, but they can also transcend sport. Ukrainian climber Jenya Kazbekova carries a weight few competitors have to shoulder. Two years into Russia’s unprovoked attack on her home, Jenya is channeling the strength of her country into competing in Paris. She just hopes the world doesn’t forget Ukraine. Lees meer

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11. Ashima Shiraishi: The Competitor's Mind

    28 juni 2024 · 33 min

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    What’s Ashima Shiraishi been up to? Since she was eight, Ashima made waves with staggering ascents beyond her years. In 2021, Ashima helped bring us into the mind of a competitor walking us through in meticulous detail of what it’s like to compete in a World Cup. Today, we reshare that short segment and then find out about Ashima’s new path through climbing far from the spotlight of the competitive circuit. Lees meer

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12. Head Games

    21 juni 2024 · 50 min

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    When we think of cutting edge climbing, we think of cutting edge athleticism. But what about the mental side? The true test of finishing the world’s most difficult routes may not come down to strength, but mental fitness. Today, we are joined by Jonathan Siegrist to discuss the mental hurdles climbers experience. Sometimes you have to let go to hang on. Lees meer

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13. Kai Lightner: Return To Form

    14 juni 2024 · 51 min

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    Kai Lightner is on a tear. When we last spoke with Kai, his path in professional climbing was unclear. He’d struggled with disordered eating, injuries, and growing into his adult body after a decade of success in competition and his path back to the upper limits of climbing seemed uncertain. Last year, Kai turned his attention to climbing outside and took the emphasis off results. An incredible string of sends followed, and once again Kai has found himself at the forefront. Lees meer

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14. Sierra Blair: Ahead of the Curve

    7 juni 2024 · 34 min

    Afspelen
    A decade ago, climbing’s most controversial figure wasn’t someone who’d lied, chopped routes, or chipped holds. It was a young woman who’d savvily harnessed the internet and social media to power her competitive career. Unintentionally, Sierra Blair became a lightning rod. Today, Sierra’s approach might simply be considered best practice for an athlete on social media, but a decade ago it sparked conversations about who gets to call themselves an athlete or a “real” climber, and it exposed a vein of misogyny flowing through our sport. With that period firmly in the rearview mirror and climbing harder than ever, Sierra shares her journey through climbing, professionalism, and the Internet. Lees meer

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15. Gentlemen's Race To 9a

    31 mei 2024 · 42 min

    Afspelen
    Sometimes we all need healthy competition. Last summer Alex, Tommy Caldwell, and Sonnie Trotter hatched a plan – each would attempt to climb 9a in the coming year. Climbing at your limit demands attention and accountability, something each was struggling with on their own. Together, the goal seemed a little more probable. Lees meer

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16. Put Me In Coach

    24 mei 2024 · 54 min

    Afspelen
    When Kris Hampton launched the Power Company, training for climbing was in an awkward adolescence. Research and tactics were woefully behind adjacent sports like gymnastics. Gym sessions were a stop gap for time outside and training programs were the realm of competitive youth teams and a few hardened professionals. We dive into the evolution of training, the difference between a coach and a trainer, and how close we are to the limits of human possibility. Lees meer

    Written in Stone Kris' podcast
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17. Climbing With Kids

    17 mei 2024 · 48 min

    Afspelen
    News flash: having kids changes things. Paige Claassen and Emily Harrington join Alex to discuss the new normal, reaching limits while sleep deprived and the calculus of risk as they move into parenthood. Lees meer

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18. The Adam Ondra Episode

    10 mei 2024 · 55 min

    Afspelen
    For the last decade, no climber has moved our sport closer to the future than Adam Ondra. While he’s known for his visionary sport routes, he’s excelled in every aspect of rock climbing from competition to big walls. Adam sat down for a wide ranging interview to talk about the limits of what’s humanly possible, the Olympics and shiver bivying on El Cap with his father. Lees meer

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19. Memphis Rox Needs Your Help

    22 maart 2024 · 45 min

    Afspelen
    We will be back later this spring with all new episodes of Climbing Gold, but in the meantime we wanted to rerun an episode from our first season: “This Place Will Change Climbing”. We dive into what makes Memphis Rox a unique climbing gym. And right now, Memphis Rox needs the climbing community to step up and help them through a tough financial moment. Good ideas need champions.
    Support Memphis Rox
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20. Adapted Part 2

    15 december 2023 · 54 min

    Afspelen
    In Part 2 of Adapted, Mo Beck and Jim Ewing head to the Lotus Flower Tower. Hugh Herr embarks on life after climbing and tackles one of humanity’s greatest challenges. Denny Kowska seeks to build an adaptive community from the ground up. Lees meer

    Resources
    Hugh Herr's Ted Talk
    Jim Ewing's Film Adaptive
    ParaCliffHangers
    Paradox Sports
    Adaptive Climbing Group

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21. Adapted Part 1

    8 december 2023 · 48 min

    Afspelen
    Climbing’s first phenom survives a near death experience and life altering accident on Mount Washington. In rural Maine, a young girl born without a hand discovers climbing. In the aftermath of an accident, an engineer resolves to complete a lifelong dream. Hugh Herr, Mo Beck and Jim Ewing take us on a journey in a two part series about human potential, generational friendships and the power of climbing. Lees meer

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22. Roundtable: Style

    1 december 2023 · 57 min

    Afspelen
    Style vs substance-- they are one and the same in climbing. It governs how we aspire to do routes. It inspires us. Done right, it will stand the test of time. Today, we sit down with climber Katie Lambert and photographer Ben Ditto. Lees meer

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23. The Fighter

    24 november 2023 · 48 min

    Afspelen
    When protests erupted in Iran in fall of 2022, human rights activist and professional climber Nasim Eshqi was climbing in France. As she watched the uprising back home unfold, Nasim knew that returning home at that moment would mean arrest and imprisonment at the hands of the government. She doubled down on her criticism of Iran’s repressive regime and used her climbing to bring the struggle to the international climbing community. Lees meer

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24. Roundtable: Safety Police

    17 november 2023 · 58 min

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    Underground legend and editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, Pete Takeda joins us to talk safety. We can learn from mistakes, but sometimes it’s worth speaking up before they happen. Lees meer

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25. The Greatest Lie Chapter 4: Belief

    10 november 2023 · 46 min

    Afspelen
    After successfully establishing the first fair means ascent of Cerro Torre’s SE Ridge and chopping Maestri’s bolt ladder, Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk smash into reality. In the mountains, a rescue for their friend is under way. In El Chaltén, frustration boils over and the police get involved. Meanwhile, David Lama heads back up the mountain. Years later, the community reflects on the Cerro Torre. Lees meer

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26. The Greatest Lie Chapter 3: Fair Means

    3 november 2023 · 49 min

    Afspelen
    In the 2000’s, a new, global generation of alpinists armed with a broad toolkit of skills and advancements in weather forecasting led a climbing golden age in Patagonia. While popular, Maestri’s Compressor Route becomes the target of climbers looking to leave a lasting impression on the sport. Lees meer

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27. Roundtable: Liar, Liar

    27 oktober 2023 · 49 min

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    How big of a problem is lying in climbing? Jonathan Siegrist returns to the show to talk about dishonesty in our sport. Lees meer

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28. The Greatest Lie Chapter 2: Disneyland

    20 oktober 2023 · 41 min

    Afspelen
    With doubts circling in the press, Cesare Maestri returns to Cerro Torre with hundreds of bolts, a compressor engine and gallons of gasoline intent on conquering the mountain. What ensues borders on madness leaving the next generation to untangle Maestri’s lies and correct an abomination. Lees meer

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29. The Greatest Lie Chapter 1: The Queen & The Pawns

    13 oktober 2023 · 31 min

    Afspelen
    In 1959, Cesare Maestri, an outsider and rebel drawn to the siren song of the world’s fiercest mountain, Cerro Torre, ripped a hole in climbing’s only true rule – a climber is only as good as their word. Lees meer

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30. Full Circle

    30 juni 2023 · 42 min

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    In May 2022, The Full Circle Everest team made history when seven of the members reached the world’s highest point. They were the first all black expedition team to do so. Today, we talk with Phil Henderson, Adina Scott and Eddie Taylor about their experiences on Chomolungma and the power of summits. Lees meer

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31. The Greatest Climb

    23 juni 2023 · 51 min

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    Is reaching a summit the true measure of success or is there something deeper? In 1978 a dream team of alpinists – Jim Donini, Jeff Lowe, George Lowe, and Michael Kennedy – spent 26 days tackling the North Ridge of Latok 1 in the Karakoram range and came up just short of the summit after illness struck. Their attempt became legend and a testament to the power of friendship. The North Ridge suddenly became the most coveted alpine climb on the planet, rebuffing new generations of climbers for the next 40 years. Lees meer

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32. Roundtable: Should We Make Old Routes Safer?

    16 juni 2023 · 55 min

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    A route’s history is important, but does it make it sacred? As our sport grows, people are considering whether adding bolts to existing routes to make it safer or more accessible might be a valid idea. Prolific first ascensionist, student of the sport and arguably America’s best sport climber Jonathan Siegrist joins the Climbing Gold team to discuss. Lees meer

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33. Board Games

    9 juni 2023 · 45 min

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    We journey through the world of Moonboarding with the world’s best – Ravioli Biceps. And Ben Moon walks us through the underground climbing trend that started in the cellars of Sheffield, England and has now spread across the globe. Everybody can play. Everybody can contribute. Everybody can connect. Lees meer

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34. Roundtable: The Route That Changed My Life

    2 juni 2023 · 51 min

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    Could a route change you? Kareemah Batts joins Alex, Fitz, Lauren and Leici to talk about the routes that changed what they thought was possible.
    Adaptive Climbing Group Lees meer

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35. Our Best Is Always Changing

    26 mei 2023 · 38 min

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    In April of 2022, Anna Pfaff set out to tick an Alaska classic – the Harvard Route on Mount Huntington. With her partner Priti Wright, Anna romped up the 3,000 foot face of ice, rock and snow, but the climb would prove to be a life changing experience. Frostbite would force doctors to amputate most of her toes. As a professional athlete, Anna would have to come to terms with her new best. Lees meer

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36. Not So Mellow

    19 mei 2023 · 48 min

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    The next generation needs its inspiration. The Mellow crew provides it. Between sends of the world's hardest boulders, Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Giuliano Cameroni and Jimmy Webb took climbing media into their own hands, authoring YouTube ready videos of climbing’s cutting edge with an aesthetic more akin to skate films than National Geographic.
    Shawn on Spectre (V13)
    Elijah Kiser on Levity (V14) Lees meer

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37. Roundtable: Strength Vs Technique

    12 mei 2023 · 45 min

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    Philosophy professor and member of the exclusive 5.14 after 60 club, Bill Ramsey has a bone to pick with those who value strength over technique. In this roundtable discussion, we dive into our bias towards power and Bill’s concept of the pain box. Nothing’s worse than the pain of sucking. Lees meer

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38. The Dark Horse

    5 mei 2023 · 47 min

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    Quiet and humble, Lucho Rivera was the antithesis to the wild, loud and over the top antics of the Stone Monkey generation. Yet in that band of misfits, he found a home. Now, after three decades of climbing in Yosemite, Lucho may have made the greatest contribution of his generation to the Valley’s history. Lees meer

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39. Hot Henry

    28 april 2023 · 45 min

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    In the 1970’s, no flame burned brighter than Hot Henry Barber. Often heralded as the first traveling climber, Henry redefined standards for free climbing and free soloing not just the US, but every country he visited. Along the way, he shattered egos before learning to check his own. Lees meer

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40. Dope Lake Chapter 4: Aftermath

    16 december 2022 · 46 min

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    After Jack Dorn’s death, conspiracies begin to fly in the Valley. Camp 4’s dirtbags figure out what to do with their spoils. And the plane crash becomes the stuff of Hollywood, literally. Our final installment of the Dope Lake series.

41. Dope Lake Chapter 3: The Black Book

    9 december 2022 · 40 min

    Afspelen
    By early April, the rumors of Dope Lake began to spread far beyond the Valley. What was once an under-the-radar get rich mission had spiraled out of control. When the rangers get a tip, they decide it’s time to take back the lake, but not before one of the legendary Stonemasters escapes with a kilo of cocaine and the black book. The party has to end. Lees meer

42. Dope Lake Tangent: A Climbing Revolution

    2 december 2022 · 14 min

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    Yosemite, 1970’s – it was the heart of the climbing revolution. You’ve heard a lot of voices and names in the Dope Lake series – John Long, Jim Bridwell, John Bachar, Dale Bard, Vern Clevenger, John Yablonski. Big names with big personalities that helped write the history of Yosemite Valley across all the disciplines – big wall, free climbing and bouldering. When the decade started, the hardest route in Yosemite checked in at 5.10. By the end of the decade, that standard would climb to 5.13. Lees meer

43. Dope Lake Chapter 2: Yosemite Mafia

    25 november 2022 · 31 min

    Afspelen
    The gold rush begins. When two skiers reported a possible plane crash, Yosemite Ranger Tim Setnicka started making calls. Pretty soon he realized the Park Service had a serious investigation on their hands. When federal agents landed in El Cap Meadow, the Camp 4 climbers knew something was up, but had no idea their lives were about to change. Lees meer

44. Dope Lake Chapter 1: Misfits

    18 november 2022 · 37 min

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    In 1976, a plane carrying four million dollars in marijuana crashed into a small alpine lake in the Yosemite high country. Broke and living off discarded scraps of tourist meals in the valley below, America’s best climbers smelled opportunity. The events at Dope Lake became climbing’s most potent myth and inspired a Hollywood blockbuster, but the real story and the lives it changed is stranger than fiction. Lees meer

45. The Dawn Wall Tipping Point: Part 2

    11 november 2022 · 16 min

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    What happens when you unexpectedly find yourself in the global spotlight? Tommy Caldwell offers a candid perspective into the personal impacts that the Dawn Wall media coverage had on his life. Almost overnight, the ascent arguably made Tommy the first household name in climbing and inspired an influx of new climbers to the sport. Lees meer

46. The Dawn Wall Tipping Point: Part 1

    4 november 2022 · 40 min

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    In 2015, climbing became a cultural avalanche. The Dawn Wall was its tipping point. In part one, we talk with the Pulitzer Prize winner and New York Times reporter John Branch. We hear about Sandy Russell’s novel project to put The Nose on Google Street View and Tommy Caldwell helps us make sense of the year climbing finally hit the mainstream. Lees meer

47. The HURT

    28 oktober 2022 · 22 min

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    This month, Alex completed his multi-year project to traverse Red Rock’s iconic skyline. In 32 hours, Alex ticked off 35 miles, 23k feet of climbing up to 5.11- and 20 named summits to complete the HURT – Honnold's Ultimate Red Rock Traverse. Fitz and Alex’s conversation digs into what went into this cutting edge effort. Lees meer

48. Behind The Lens

    21 oktober 2022 · 51 min

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    For many of us, social media is the portal into the lives of outdoor photographers and filmmakers. We see the images and the films they create, but it can be a bit of a mystery for how it all works behind the lens. Today we talk to climbers Colette McInerney and Austin Siadak, both photographers and filmmakers who have worked on many different outdoor film projects, to get a glimpse of what it takes to create incredible outdoor stories. Lees meer

    Films and photographers mentioned in this episode:
    Pretty Strong by Never Not Collective
    The Alpinist with Marc-Andre Leclerc
    Mikey Schaefer
    Meru by Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk

49. Facing Fear with Alex Honnold | ReThinking with Adam Grant

    18 oktober 2022 · 44 min

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    How can you turn your fear into excitement? Today, we’re sharing an episode of Re:Thinking with Adam Grant, a podcast from the TED Audio Collective. In this episode, Alex sits down with Adam to talk about regulating emotions when you’re hanging off the edge of a cliff, what still scares him, and how he stays motivated to pursue ambitious goals.
    If you’d like to hear more from leading thinkers and creators, follow ReThinking wherever you get your podcasts. Each week, Adam dives into the minds of interesting people to learn the unique ways they think and find practices we can all apply in our daily lives to live a little better. This season, the show features guests like bestselling author Celeste Ng, entrepreneur Mark Cuban, and Oscar-winning actress Reese Witherspoon. Lees meer

50. Essential

    14 oktober 2022 · 35 min

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    Does climbing have inherent value? We kick off season 4 of Climbing Gold by talking about finding meaning in our lives, whether through climbing or other pursuits. Nik Berry, an ER nurse and rock climber, reflects on his pursuit of climbing hard routes and how that shifted and guided him during the COVID-19 pandemic. Lees meer