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70 afleveringen, van nieuw naar oud
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Charlie Schreiber - TRAIN Like a World Cup Climber
26 oktober 2026 · 1 uur 38 min
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Charlie is the founder of Paradigm Climbing and he has been coaching climbing athletes from the beginner to elite level for over 17 years. In this episode, we’ll hear about a suspicious supplement sponsorship he had when he was a kid, what his world cup experience was like back in the day, why he thinks competition climbing has turned way too much into not real climbing, and of course everything coaching related.
Guest links:
Paradigm Climbing Website
Instagram
Youtube
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:18 - Insane schedule
7:02 - Getting into climbing, competing, and coaching
11:31 - Sketchy sugar daddy athlete sponsorship??
17:05 - How he would coach his younger self
22:10 - Strengths and weaknesses
26:57 - His experience competing at world cups
36:14 - Coaching goals
38:21 - How personalized does coaching need to be?
52:09 - How to learn movement
55:05 - The importance of spray wall
1:06:18 - AUDIENCE Q: How to improve as a coach?
1:08:48 - World Climbing Setting is too far gone?
1:16:58 - What the US is doing wrong with training
1:22:52 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you tell when a kid will be a v17 climber?
1:27:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Fingerboarding vs board climbing?
1:29:24 - AUDIENCE Q: How to train big dynes?
1:32:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Dream clients?
1:35:14 - Words of wisdom and where to find Charlie
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Ardch Intrachupongse - Thailand Climbing EXPOSED
12 oktober 2026 · 1 uur 33 min
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Ardch is a boulderer for the Thailand team, and he has made semis several times in World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll hear why he thinks climbing is performative in Thailand, why it’s hard to grow climbing as a spectator sport, and we’ll talk about where we draw the line on setting that is too trendy. Hope you’re ready for some hot takes and strong opinions in this one!
Guest links:
Ardch's Instagram
Reference links:
PCL Bouldering Project Qualifiers
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:16 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:07 - Winning Seattle Boulderfest + PCL
9:31 - Moving to the US, getting into climbing
15:47 - Performative climbing in Thailand?
25:49 - Lack of World Climbing level Thai climbers
33:15 - Should it become a D1 sport in the USA?
39:13 - How to grow climbing
47:39 - Goodbye dirtbags
51:03 - Outdoor paddle dynos
58:20 - What climbing trend goes TOO FAR?
1:03:15 - What does it take to make semis and finals in world climbing?
1:12:29 - Salt Lake City and Mental Pressure
1:15:05 - Why is the mens field so unpredictable?
1:20:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Wow factor to making finals?
1:25:42 - Glazing Sorato
1:28:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Most underdeveloped part of climbing?
1:31:27 - Words of wisdom and where to find Arch
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Bharath + Vishak - The UNIQUE Challenges of Team India
28 september 2026 · 1 uur 41 min
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Bharath and Vishak are climbers from team India who now have experience at several world series events. In this episode, we’ll hear about the unique challenges they face climbing and training in India, some crazy stories about the worst bouldering nationals ever, why they think the average age for comp climbing will get older, and how they aim to grow climbing in India by routesetting and making climbing shoes.
Guest links:
Bharath's Instagram
Vishak's Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:19 - Training in Japan
7:01 - Getting into climbing and competing
15:10 - India climbing scene then vs now
16:57 - The state of setting in India
23:36 - The worst comp EVER
28:31 - Outdoor climbing in India
30:11 - What happens in World Climbing ISO
36:11 - Best tips from pro climbers
40:47 - Give Bharath some skin advice please!
44:00 - Team dynamics in ISO
47:21 - Crazy coaching practices in India
52:34 - Will comp climbing stop being so young??
1:00:54 - New school moves and coordination rock climbs?!
1:03:10 - Making climbing shoes
1:09:35 - Balancing training and setting
1:13:08 - Asia cup goal
1:17:57 - AUDIENCE Q: What do you wish you knew before you started?
1:21:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Dealing with plateaus and injury?
1:24:11 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting through tenosynovitis?
1:26:48 - AUDIENCE Q: What is…
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Lučka Rakovec - Competing Post-Thyroid Cancer
14 september 2026 · 1 uur 7 min
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Lučka is a lead climber from Slovenia who recently won bronze at the European championships and came back to the world climbing scene after undergoing cancer-removing surgery in 2025. In this episode, we’ll hear about how her cancer diagnosis affected her climbing, training, and mental health, we’ll learn about the Slovenian team, and we’ll put together a tier list for the worst things that can happen in a lead comp.
Guest links:
Lucka's Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:24 - Finger injury before European champs
5:54 - Getting into climbing and competing
11:11 - Reading and memorizing the lead route
15:38 - Ranking the worst things to happen during a lead route
20:02 - Training plan
22:11 - Thyroid cancer diagnosis + emetaphobia
31:20 - How long it took to return to climbing
35:50 - The mental effect of returning to competition
38:56 - Does the Slovenian team train with Janja?
42:53 - Dating within the team
45:50 - 2028 Olympic hopes?
47:58 - Post-climbing plans?
53:12 - Future dog plans
56:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Are you afraid of falling?
1:00:15 - AUDIENCE Q: Previous Slovenian legends?
1:01:36 - AUDIENCE Q: How many routes and what difficulty in 1 session?
1:05:53 - Where to find Lucka
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Ella Fisher - No Fancy Training Facility? No Problem.
17 augustus 2026 · 1 uur 31 min
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Ella is a lead climber on team USA who made her first world series finals earlier this year in Prague! In this episode, we’ll learn about how she climbs the same lead routes all year round to train in Arizona, why she doesn’t want to move to Salt Lake City despite that, how a simple vitamin deficiency wrecked her body for a whole year, and how she went from placing 40th in world cups to making semis and finals in 1 year.
Guest links:
Ella's Instagram
Reference links:
Check out https://comp.rocks for climbing competitions near you! (Currently USA only)
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:42 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:33 - Preparing for Koper
10:36 - Starting climbing at 3
14:03 - Getting coached by her dad
20:09 - Fitness is all that matters for lead?
24:42 - Why she doesn't want to move to SLC
30:14 - Beta video before lead quails!!!
34:36 - Seeing a dyno in a lead route
35:58 - First WS finals experience
41:33 - 40th place to making finals in 1 year
44:38 - Training routine
49:52 - Ella LOVES autobelays!
57:13 - Youth climbers don't need to hang board
59:41 - A year of health issues
1:10:08 - Upcoming goals
1:13:25 - Balancing training with coaching and college
1:19:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you deal with pressure?
1:21:46 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you do fantasy climbing league?
1:22:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Would you ever go back to Schwandorf?
1:29:33 - Whe…
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Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi - Indonesian Speed Climbing DOMINANCE
27 juli 2026 · 1 uur 6 min
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Robby is a speed climber from Indonesia who has already gotten 2 silver medals in the world series season this year! In this episode, we’ll learn about the climbing scene in Indonesia, speed climbing rituals and whether they’re actually helpful, we’ll hear this thoughts on the 4 lane and speed relay formats, and we’ll get insight into how he got so good at speed climbing after only training it consistently for 3 years.
Guest links:
Robby's Instagram
Reference links:
Robby's favorite speed moment - Sam's WR
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:37 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:28 - Getting medals in Europe
3:51 - Only been seriously speed training for 3 years?!
10:33 - Breaking plateaus
15:26 - Ritual before each speed run
21:15 - What's more important: Speed or consistency?
22:58 - What speed training looks like
28:57 - Opinion on relay format
31:40 - How team selection works
37:23 - The surprises that come with 4 lanes
39:27 - Indonesia climbing scene
45:44 - 2027 goals and lessons from Sam Watson + Zhao Yicheng
51:17 - Olympic dreams
52:15 - Hobbies and studying
53:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you handle burnout?
56:57 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you improve so fast?
59:11 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you breathe during a speed run?
1:00:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you train other sports?
1:01:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Describe your previous coach?
1:03:48 - Where to find Robby
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Meagan + C Lad - SPONSORED belayers?!
13 juli 2026 · 1 uur 23 min
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Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training videos for World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll debunk the myth that women can’t belay men or heavier climbers, we’ll learn about the problems with Assisted Braking Device (ABD)requirements in gyms, and of course, we'll talk about how to get into high level belaying and how they became SPONSORED belayers thanks to Trango.
Guest links:
USA Belay Instagram
C Lad's Instagram
Meagan's Instagram
USA Belay YouTube
Reference links:
Wujiang 2025 Belayer Aiding Climber
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:19 - Excitement for Pan-American series
4:21 - Getting into climbing and belaying
14:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between an avg vs elite belayer?
20:26 - Work that allows the flexibility for travel
22:48 - How to get into belaying at a high level
27:43 - Setting the standard for World Climbing
34:36 - ATC vs ABDs in gyms
39:06 - The belayer's unique pivotal role
43:41 - Snugroping?
45:28 - Athlete interactions
48:00 - Dual-belay system
52:44 - Is it too late to become an Olympics belayer?
56:42 - Being sponsored as belayers
1:01:54 - Why is belaying para the best?
1:08:46 - Routesetting that makes belaying harder
1:14:25 - AUDIENCE Q: What's it like to walk up to an Olympian and belay them?
1:16:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Fa…
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Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In
29 juni 2026 · 1 uur 5 min
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Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter.
Guest links:
Max's Instagram
Reference links:
Bern Women's M3
CWIF Cartwheel Boulder
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background
7:00 - World climbing setting levels
10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked
15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue?
18:24 - What is the perfect round?
22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters?
24:19 - Forerunning process
29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves
34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!
38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors
42:34 - Zones vs tops point change
44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse
52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!
54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting?
59:21 - AUDIENCE …
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Samuel Richard - New School Climbers are LOCKED IN
15 juni 2026 · 1 uur 12 min
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Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day.
Guest links:
Sam’s Youtube
Sam’s Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:26 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:17 - Reflecting on Madrid World Series
6:40 - Can you see results in ISO?
9:31 - Starting climbing at age 2
12:46 - Climbing strengths and weaknesses
16:17 - Fearlessness for new school climbing
22:05 - French team training and powering out
24:30 - French Team Selection
29:36 - Qualis is the most physical round
31:37 - "Sam Richard" as a persona
35:19 - Getting energy from the audience
38:41 - Climbing journal
43:49 - Hot take: outdoor climbing is better than indoor?
51:35 - Youngest person to climb v17?
53:08 - Climbing optimization
57:13 - Quitting climbing for running...
1:01:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the transition from youth to senior?
1:05:13 - AUDIENCE Q: How to hype yourself up?
1:07:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the bromance between you, Mejdi, and Manu?
1:10:05 - Words of widsom and where to find Sam
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Andy McVittie - The Kids are Climbing TOO MUCH!
4 mei 2026 · 1 uur 9 min
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Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers.
Guest links:
Website
Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:05 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:45 - Spain trip and watching PCL
4:44 - Getting into climbing and PT
8:00 - Youth getting into competing more?
9:10 - Are youth climber overtraining?
11:28 - Outcome of growth plate fractures
16:43 - Youth Climbers very rarely get injured
21:28 - Youth climbers should not specialize in climbing
32:03 - What does arthritis look like?
37:00 - Is synovitis a sign of future arthritis?
38:55 - Injuries are actually coming from outdoor climbing....
46:32 - Max Milne's Foot Injury
49:53 - Are injury rates increasing within comp climbers?
52:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Common adult injuries breaking into the comp scene?
59:48 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you even climb with hyper mobility?
1:06:54 - Words of wisdom and where to find Andy
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Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League!
27 april 2026 · 1 uur 21 min
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You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all things competition.
Guest links:
Fantasy Climbing League Site
Emil’s Youtube
Felix’s Instagram
Emil’s Instagram
Reference links:
Boardclimbs App
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:01 - Living in Arco
5:22 - Starting climbing and competing
14:26 - Existential AI talk
17:14 - Fantasy Climbing League overview
21:10 - They've never played fantasy sports before!!
22:47 - Drafting strategy
25:37 - Are fantasy leagues gambling-adjacent??
33:36 - Top picks of the season
42:07 - Are injury comebacks good picks?
45:13 - Janja vs Ai debate
52:26 - Will Tomoa have a downfall?!
1:00:03 - Tomoa v Meichi?
1:02:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What style of comp climbing would change the results the most?
1:10:21 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the future of comp climbing look like?
1:13:38 - AUDIENCE Q: What expectations should a comp beginner have?
1:18:04 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your favorite WoW dungeon?
1:19:05 - Join Fantasy Climbing League ASAP!!!
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Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing
13 april 2026 · 1 uur 17 min
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Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches.
Guest links:
Sam’s Instagram
Guitar Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:34 - His mother still competing at 42 years old
7:45 - Getting into climbing and competing
9:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Did growing up in a climbing family add pressure?
12:52 - Struggling between youth and senior circuits
16:51 - Rough 2025 season
22:53 - 2028 Olympics strategy
26:37 - Being a short king
31:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for short kings?
35:41 - Training with the French team
37:51 - AUDIENCE Q: how do you self coach?
41:21 - Training only with climbing
45:21 - Gyms worth visiting in Paris
47:05 - Secrets to French slab
51:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What are you thinking about when climbing?
56:06 - Mental game
58:41 - 2026 goals
1:01:22 - AUDIENCE Q: Playing guitar?
1:04:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you make a living climbing?
1:08:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How to gain finger strength?
1:12:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Recovery routine?
1:15:56 - Where to find Sam
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Jackie Hueftle - The MASTERMIND Behind PCL Routesetting
30 maart 2026 · 1 uur 30 min
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Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of Kilter! In this episode, we’ll learn more about the unique challenges that came with setting for PCL, why she thinks it’s important to have more women setting for women’s comps, and how YOU could maybe try climbing the same exact boulders set at PCL.
Guest links:
Kiter’s Website
Jackie’s Instagram
Pro Climbing League Website
Kilter Youtube
Reference links:
Underrated hold
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:00 - Still cleaning up from PCL
5:42 - Interesting Kilter free-standing option
7:34 - Getting into climbing, setting, and Kilter
13:38 - The political path to becoming an IFSC setter
15:34 - Starting the Woman Up Comps
20:00 - What grade do you need to climb to be a route setter?
22:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you build the PCL routesetting team?
28:46 - What made setting different for PCL
32:09 - How to get separation
36:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Was this speed bouldering, was women's setting too easy?
41:57 - Is sanding down holds fair?!
43:47 - Why it's hard to calibrate for female competitors
51:16 - How boulder changeover worked
55:37 - The slab that didn't get shown
58:24 - Different competition strategies
1:03:27 - AUDIENCE Q: Harder to gauge setting than World Cup?
1:04:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did the setting matter …
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Mickael Mawem - An HONEST talk about money in climbing
16 maart 2026 · 1 uur 46 min
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Mickael is a french boulderer and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern 2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest conversation about how growing up poor motivated him to make money as a climber, why he stuck with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects, what his training looks like which includes warming up with 80 pull-ups, and of course, what happened during the Bern world champ finals. Shoutout to Madrock for hosting this interview at their headquarters!
Guest links:
Mickael’s Instagram
Reference links:
Climbing with Jonathan Sin Video
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
3:46 - Starting climbing with his brother Bassa
7:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Being one of the few black climbers in the IFSC
13:39 - Affording climbing when growing up poor
24:31 - Pro climbing only pays enough for the present
28:10 - Why he would not choose climbing in hindsight
30:51 - Why he still chose climbing
34:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you ever compete again in the IFSC?
38:33 - The goal: be rich
45:25 - Bern World Champs finals boulders
53:26 - Encountering no-tex for the first time ever
1:01:59 - Mickael's crazy pull up training
1:06:12 - How to work on your technique
1:11:47 - The secret to French slab
1:14:28 - Why he trains alone
1:21:59 - Keeping up with the evolution of climbing
1:25:44 - His…
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Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams
23 februari 2026 · 1 uur 9 min
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Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been climbing for over 22 years and had actually retired from competing…until hearing about the Paralympics. In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like climbing with a stump, whether outdoor, indoor, or comp setting is most friendly to her impairment, we’ll talk about petty drama in the community, and what sport shopping is in the Paralympics.
Guest links:
Mo’s Instagram
Mo’s Website
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:59 - Lifting at a bro-y gym
3:28 - The 'stump' impairment
7:40 - Getting into climbing and competing
13:39 - Thoughts on gym setting for her stump
22:10 - Becoming a real sport means drama
28:16 - "Training" back then vs real training now
29:29 - World Cup appearances 2026 and 2027
30:55 - What we know about Paralympics qualifications
32:18 - How the Paralympics have changed paraclimbing
35:49 - Paralympic "Sport shopping"
38:09 - Heartbreak over which sport classes got chosen for the Paralympics
42:17 - What her training will look like to qualify at 39 years old
46:44 - Audience Q: What does the process look like to qualify for Paralympics?
48:59 - Dealing with comp nerves
50:49 - Is outdoor climbing more friendly for her stump?
52:38 - Out…
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Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??
2 februari 2026 · 1 uur 14 min
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Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of coaches.
Guest links:
Rachel’s Instagram
Rachel’s Youtube
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs
4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete
8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance
13:46 - Becoming a coach
15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior?
20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition
23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches
31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches?
34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches!
40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style
43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness...
45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques?
50:17 - Climbing goals
53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics?
56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad?
58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie among…
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Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!
19 januari 2026 · 1 uur 7 min
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Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING.
Guest links:
Emma’s Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:11 - My annual stretching resolution
5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?!
9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing
11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit
14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja
16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior?
17:02 - Climbing styles
20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster
24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out
27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing?
29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o
31:40 - Being a taller climber
32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms
38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella
39:47 - Season expectations?
42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture?
46:45 - Outdoor Climbing
47:55 - Enjoying sedenta…
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Charlie Boscoe - Founding a BRAND NEW Bouldering Series
5 januari 2026 · 1 uur 19 min
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This is Charlie’s second time on the podcast and he’s back with a big announcement! For those who aren’t familiar, Charlie preceded Matt Groom as the IFSC/World Climbing commentator. This time, he’s back to talk about the brand new competition series, Pro Climbing League. In this episode, we’ll go over all the details of what a PCL competition will look like, the challenges they faced the past 5 years putting this together, and I’m diving into all the finances as well.
Guest links:
PCL Website
PCL Instagram
Charlie’s Instagram
Reference links:
Solo Documentary (Kayaking Story)
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:13 - PCL test event
3:32 - IFSC/World Climbing Background
6:17 - What is Pro Climbing League?
11:18 - Live routesetting during a competition
15:21 - YOU may be able to compete!
19:25 - Hardest part of setting up a climbing league
24:25 - Why PCL was started
29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: What prompted the head to head format?
34:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you consult with athletes for this format?
40:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Challenges broadcasting this comp?
44:22 - Getting sponsor money for the league
47:08 - Most expensive part
53:00 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the prize money look like?
1:00:07 - I'm addicted to the concept of sports betting
1:05:08 - What does success look like?
1:08:51 - AUDIENCE Q: Future schedule and locations…
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Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi - Fukuoka TEAM Climbing Event TELL-ALL
1 december 2025 · 1 uur 10 min
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Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present.
Guest links:
Declan’s Instagram
Zoe’s Instagram
Reference links:
Fukuoka Competition Playlist
Yank n yard stream: Highball boulders comp
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:03 - Starting climbing and competing
4:48 - Strength training BAD?!
10:18 - Japan traveling
11:50 - Fukuoka team event selection process
14:28 - Difficulty of the climbs
18:37 - Talking to the coach during the comp
20:59 - Pressure climbing with a coach and teammates
23:51 - Team competition strategies
28:08 - 5 rounds in 3 days
31:06 - First time competing on IFSC livestream
33:15 - The stress of youth competitions
35:34 - World Cup climbing is uncomfortable
40:23 - Lead vs boulder preference
44:37 - Future climbing + education goals
49:26 - Now we're just glazing San Diego
54:41 - Audience Q: Anything you would've wanted to change with the team event?
58:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Memories/advice from youth training?
1:02:17 - Being known as the "benchwarmers' benchwarmers"
1:03:08 - Outdoor goals
…
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Hannes Van Duysen - Slab KING Feels Pressure
17 november 2025 · 1 uur 18 min
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You may have heard of him as the slab master, but Hannes is a climber on Team Belgium who just recently got silver in boulder at Arco Rockmasters and also won a bronze in Innsbruck this past 2025 season! In this episode, we’ll go over his 2025 season, get his tips on slab climbing, and learn about how he tries to stay in the right mindset during stressful competitions.
Guest links:
Hannes’ Instagram
Reference links:
Amazing Arco Rockmaster Slab Top
The Backflip of Anger
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:12 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:56 - Elbow surgery!
4:20 - Rockmasters reflection
10:55 - Getting into climbing and competing
15:27 - Transitioning out of youth comps
17:24 - 2025 season reflection
22:41 - Comps are going back to old-school climbs
26:08 - Instagram influencing world cups
28:44 - Staying in shape throughout a long competition season
32:10 - Lead vs boulder preference
35:43 - Training schedule + lifting vs gaining weight
43:12 - Pressure being the slab master
47:31 - Top slab tips
49:45 - The fickle mental game of comps
52:58 - Power of visualization for mindset
56:55 - The backflip of anger!!
1:00:16 - Taking his driving test
1:05:03 - 2026 goals
1:06:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What is the language situation in team Belgium?
1:09:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you think calisthenics/gymnastics is necessary now in comp climbing?
1:11:35 - AUDIENCE…
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Ben Hanna - Self Medicating ADHD with Climbing
27 oktober 2025 · 1 uur 36 min
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Ben is a climber on Team USA and hold shaper for Pusher holds! In this episode we’ll get some insight into the grades of world cup boulders, how depression, anxiety, and ADHD shapes his relationship with climbing, how he balances working as a routesetter with training, and get his thoughts on hold shaping.
Guest links:
Ben’s Instagram
Reference links:
Seoul World Champs Boulder Semis
The Boss hold
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:10 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:53 - World champs experience
11:51 - Difficulty of semis boulders at world cups
18:33 - Getting into climbing and competing
22:36 - Climbing as self-medication for ADHD
30:20 - Training routine...or lack thereof
38:44 - Actually a lead climber
45:21 - MORE power boulders!
51:55 - Competitiveness with Colin
55:11 - Becoming a hold shaper
59:00 - Good holds vs bad holds
1:09:54 - Thoughts on no tex
1:20:05 - 2026 goals
1:21:56 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you really start climbing at 2?
1:26:19 - AUDIENCE Q: What kept you motivated to keep trying after failures at nationals
1:30:53 - AUDIENCE Q: What local climbers helped you growing up?
1:33:51 - Shoutouts + where to find Ben
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Annie Sanders - EXCLUSIVE: 2025 IFSC Season Thoughts
13 oktober 2025 · 48 min
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Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance.
Guest links:
Annies’s Instagram
Annie’s Xiaohungshu (red book)
Reference links:
Women’s Boulder Final Seoul World Champs
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
0:56 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:39 - Jetlag + travels
5:29 - Growing up in a climbing family
7:09 - Static + slow climbing style
10:07 - Regretting static beta breaks??
12:08 - Timing out in lead
18:22 - 2026 goals
20:49 - Annie's training plan
24:32 - Lack of gym access
27:43 - Post-high school plans
30:22 - Outdoor climbing
33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you still be an elite climber without passion?
35:43 - Audience Q: Mindset during comps?
41:36 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for endurance?
42:26 - Audience Q: Advice on how to break dynos?
43:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it hard previewing climbs with other athletes?
45:57 - Outro and where to find Annie
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Sagi Damti - German Coach DEBUNKS Olympics Rumors
15 september 2025 · 1 uur 45 min
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Sagi has been the German team’s bouldering coach since 2022! In this episode, we’ll get insight into Team Germany’s training and challenges, hear why he thinks the losses hurt the coaches more than the competitors, we’ll get a story about his experience as a homeless person while in the US, and most importantly, we’ll DEBUNK his famous statement in the Magnus video that Olympic qualifiers will still be in the combined format for 2028!
Guest links:
Sagi’s Instagram
Reference links:
IFSC Format Experiment Upcoming Comp
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:40 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:24 - Youth worlds + Spain travels
4:59 - Climbing + coaching with no experience!
12:02 - Becoming the German bouldering coach
19:42 - Do pros still need climbing tips??
22:41 - Team Germany's training breakdown + reaction time practice
28:19 - Comforting athletes who have a bad round
37:58 - DEBUNKING LA 2028 qualification process
44:07 - The issue with bouldering points system
47:32 - HOT TAKE: Bouldering is no longer real climbing
54:53 - New generation of climbing
1:02:55 - German team challenges
1:09:42 - Price of hosting world cups
1:11:13 - Bouldering needs to change
1:18:50 - USA travel nightmare
1:28:03 - IG Q: Athletes in Germany that hate the DAV?
1:32:11 - DISCORD Q: Talk through the process of an appeal
1:38:58 - DISCORD Q: What do you do in ISO?
1:40:55…
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Miguel Zevallos - FIX Your Comp Climbing INJURIES
1 september 2025 · 1 uur 19 min
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Miguel is a climbing physical therapist who works closely with the Method youth climbing team in the US and recently worked his first youth nationals! In this episode, we’ll learn about the danger of growth plate injuries in youth climbing athletes, we’ll get a glimpse into youth ISO, we’ll rank 3 of the most dangerous comp moves we’ve seen so far, and we’ll hear about his own journey trying to make the Peruvian national team!
Guest links:
Miguel’s Instagram
Miguel’s website
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:03 - Getting into PT and climbing
4:09 - OTs vs PTs and insurance battles
7:26 - Working with youth comp climbers
9:44 - What ISO is like at youth nationals
14:38 - Massage guns? And my bro-science musings
16:43 - Injuries in kids vs adults
19:37 - The big one: growth plate injuries in kids
25:01 - When to rest vs train through an injury
27:34 - General recommendations for climbing injuries
32:45 - S+C to prevent ankle, shoulder injuries
35:26 - Ranking 3 dangerous comp moves
42:27 - When NOT to tape
47:28 - What injuries do vs don't require time off the wall
52:53 - Chronic injuries? Maybe you're climbing wrong...
59:33 - Training for Peruvian nationals
1:06:37 - DISCORD Q: What advice would you give to PT students looking to work with climbers?
1:08:46 - DIS…
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Pete Woods - The Sad FINANCIALS of Climbing
11 augustus 2025 · 1 uur 37 min
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Pete is a commentator and MC who has commentated for several world cups and North American elite competitions. In this episode, we’ll learn about the art of MCing, times he’s gotten flamed online as a commentator, and we get a lot of insight into the financials of broadcast and climbing as a sport, including the best argument I’ve heard yet for why Eurosport is a good deal. It’s clear to me in this episode that Pete is a huge proponent of growing the climbing community and his passion really shines through!
Guest links:
Pete’s Instagram
Pete’s website
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:13 - Climbing in 1 World Cup
8:15 - Deciding not to be a dirtbag climber
11:13 - The art of MCing
15:13 - Is MCing or commentary more fun?
18:58 - The price of broadcasting
21:06 - Getting yelled at for commentary
27:03 - SLC world cup v6 boulders
37:41 - How to trick top climbers with holds
39:43 - The value of non-IFSC comps
46:26 - Cost of putting together Dockmasters
51:41 - Punk Rock Masters' crazy $50k cash purse
59:52 - Are climbers cheapskates?!
1:11:37 - IG Q: Are dynamic moves a good way to make climbing more mainstream?
1:16:26 - IG Q: What do you want to be remembered for?
1:17:51 - IG Q: What's your current relationship with CEC?
1:24:49 - IG Q: What's your golf handicap?…
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Nekaia + Sovarae Sanders - Comp Climbing SISTERHOOD
28 juli 2025 · 1 uur 31 min
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You probably recognize Nekaia from when she recently made her first boulder world cup finals in Curitiba and her sister Sovarae podiumed at her last USA youth boulder nationals. In this episode, we get a lot of insight into their sibling dynamic as comp climbers, we’ll hear about Nekaia’s experience in Curitiba and Sovarae’s experience going through mental battles at comps, and we’ll have some fun conversation about food and Harry Potter.
Guest links:
Nekaia’s Instagram
Sovarae’s Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:35 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:18 - Nekaia's new haircut!
6:59 - Are they related to Annie Sanders?!
7:42 - How the family got into climbing
11:05 - Homeschool kids
13:52 - Sovarae used to get dragged to the climbing gym
21:11 - Jealously and competitiveness amongst each other
30:45 - How USA team selection works
33:49 - Nekaia's breakout performance in Curitiba
41:25 - Nekaia's slab strength and strength weakness
43:39 - Sovarae's finger strength and mental weakness
49:32 - Nekaia's mental advice
51:57 - World Cup traveling and eating abroad
56:32 - HOT TAKE: Losing is more important than winning
59:53 - HOT TAKE: People who say they don't like comp style climbing need to be shown how!
1:04:12 - Swimming and Harry Potter
1:10:53 - DISCORD Q: How early to start wearing in a comp shoe?
1:13:30 - IG Q: Favorit…
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Carl McNeice - Erin McNeice's BRUTAL HONESTY Approach to Training
14 juli 2025 · 1 uur 33 min
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If it’s not obvious, Carl is Erin McNeice’s dad and I’m so thrilled to get a parent perspective on the podcast. In this episode, we’ll learn about the family’s dedication and honest approach to building Erin’s climbing career, how much it cost to support the training and travel of an athlete, why he’s no longer allowed to watch her comps in person, and get adorable dad-anecdotes from the Olympics.
Guest links:
Carl’s Instagram
Reference links:
Erin’s Episode
Budapest Olympic Qualifier Stress
(Buzzed) Eurosport interview
Horsin Around Quest for 8C
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:19 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:06 - Returning from Innsbruck
5:44 - Carl's climbing and gymnastics background
10:47 - Getting involved in competition climbing
15:57 - When to push vs when to back off
22:43 - The cost of being a comp parent
28:32 - Sudden rise between the 2023-2024 season
33:59 - Erin's intense training schedule
38:37 - Phasing out of Erin's training routine
42:53 - Not being allowed to watch the comps in person
48:06 - The stress of watching your child compete
54:38 - Most stressful competition to watch
58:35 - The Olympics experience
1:06:13 - Thoughts on dangerous setting
1:16:55 - DISCORD Q: How does having a comp kid influence the family dynamic?
1:20:02 - DISCORD: How to avoid good results = good vibes only
1:25:31 - DISCORD Q: Do you approve s…
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Ty Hardaway - The World's HIGHEST MILEAGE Belayer
30 juni 2025 · 1 uur 18 min
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Ty has done it all: He’s been competition belaying, judging, and coaching for over 10 years, and he started the belay programs at USA climbing and the IFSC. In this episode, we’ll learn about all things belaying, get behind the scenes insight, and hear about how the scene has changed since the Olympics came into play, leading to some toxic parents.
Guest links:
Ty’s Instagram
Reference links:
Noah Makaiwi Interview
Reel Rock Speed Mishap @10:25
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:08 - Coaching and belaying at USA youth nationals
7:36 - Getting into volunteer judging/belaying
11:35 - Good belaying vs bad belaying
15:40 - You need to train your neck!!
18:03 - Dangerous belay practices
23:49 - The pressure of belaying at world cups
29:29 - Athletes with specific belay requests
31:54 - Athletes who are hard to belay for
34:32 - Routesetting that makes belaying hard
37:28 - Being a speed starter
43:57 - Birmingham world games 2022
47:41 - HOT TAKE: Women are better belayers than men?!
51:25 - Paraclimbing belaying
54:28 - Manual speed climbing belaying?!
57:02 - Extra considerations for para belaying
59:37 - Changes in the sport - Olympics desperation
1:04:40 - The toxic youth scene
1:09:31 - Discord Q: Do belayers get a rundown of the route from setters?
1:10:24 - DISCORD Q: Have you ever seen an athlete or coach ob…
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Antonin Pharel - Why IFSC Production SUCKS?!
26 mei 2025 · 1 uur 26 min
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Antonin is the graphics operator for the IFSC! In this episode, we’ll learn about why the IFSC chooses to use local production teams instead of their own production team and the difficulties that come with that, why graphics don’t show up sometimes, and we’ll hear about his thoughts on why the bouldering format is inherently broken for watching on TV.
Guest links:
Antonin’s Instagram
Reference links:
Arco Rock Master
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:08 - 5 weekends of work
5:23 - Best ISO Warm up zone
7:07 - What he does for IFSC
10:19 - The structure of IFSC broadcast
13:30 - Choosing between IFSC production or local
19:07 - What guidelines are given to local tv crews?
23:08 - Who is in charge of cinematic shot decisions?
36:43 - The difficulty showing bouldering on TV
43:05 - Considering the elimination boulder format?
46:33 - How to satisfy both climber and non-climbing audience
49:53 - Why do graphics lag behind/not show up?
54:41 - Can we have scores show on screen more often?
58:02 - Why putting up a clock is so difficult
1:02:39 - Traveling with a full camera set
1:07:47 - Dead body in SLC?!
1:12:46 - Climbing gym work
1:21:05 - Q: Do you ever rewatch comps?
1:23:34 - Q: Is it legal to stream the whole event as a spectator?
1:25:02 - Where to find Antonin and send further complaints :p
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Ep 40: Erik Noya - How Politics KILLED Venezuela Climbing
12 mei 2025 · 1 uur 31 min
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Erik is an accomplished speed climber from Spain! In this episode, we’ll learn about how politics destroyed climbing in Venezuela, what it was like starting over with life and training in Spain, injuries in speed climbing, and we’ll get his thoughts on other speed climbing formats like relays and yearly route changes. Hear from speed climbing’s most positive athlete!
Guest links:
Erik’s Instagram
Reference links:
Climb Gurus - Clothing Brand!
Old Venezuelan IFSC Profile
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:11 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:59 - Training at a special facility
4:12 - How he started climbing and competing
11:00 - IFSC athlete page mixup
14:46 - Moving from Venezuela to Spain
16:07 - Why he moved away from Venezuela
24:06 - Venezuela's PREVIOUS climbing dominance
31:07 - Starting over in Spain
36:54 - The differences in speed training
40:10 - Bad speed climbing habits to break
46:40 - Reflecting on OQS and not making the Olympics
54:37 - Climbing goals for 2025 season
57:26 - Being an older climber
59:37 - Knowing when to give up
1:02:27 - Speed climbing injuries?!
1:07:32 - Life outside of speed climbing
1:13:54 - Discord Q: What is your opinion on the latest changes in FEDME particularly the firing of David Macia from the Olympics selection for 2028?
1:19:57 - Discord Q: Thoughts on relays, changing the route yearly, etc?
1:22:09 - …
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Ep 39: Shauna Coxsey - The TRUTH About Motherhood and Pro Climbing
28 april 2025 · 1 uur 40 min
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So you all probably know who she is, but just in case you don’t, Shauna is a British climber, 2-time bouldering world cup season winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she’s still ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode, we’ll learn about how not excited she was to compete in the Olympics, why she has an issue with the word “retirement,” and of course, the difficulty of managing climbing during and after pregnancy both socially and physically.
Guest links:
Shauna’s Instagram
Reference links:
Foxy Holds
Women’s Climbing Symposium
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:36 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2;23 - Running climbing clinics
6:18 - Being the "calm" comp climber
9:16 - The nightmarish path to Tokyo Olympics
14:39 - How she started climbing + competing
17:59 - Team GB then vs now
19:52 - The evolving comp and social media game
28:54 - IFSC Athlete's Commission Goals
34:38 - DISCORD Q: Are we actually moving the needle with RED-S testing
37:39 - Personal eating disorder experience
43:35 - The issue with the word "retirement"
48:37 - DISCORD Q: How do you mentally deal with training that used to work well but now doesn't?
50:58 - The TRUTH about "having fun"
53:28 - Best comp memories
58:42 - Managing climbing while pregnant
1:07:32 - DISCORD Q: What was the most helpful postpartum training exercise?
1:12:05 - Thoughts on pulling a Jain Kim?
…
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Ep 38: Chaz Misuraca - What it's like climbing BLIND
7 april 2025 · 1 uur 58 min
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Chaz is a blind paraclimber from team Canada and is in the B3 category, meaning he has about 10% of his sight left. What’s crazy is that he didn’t start climbing until after he lost his vision! In this episode, we’ll learn about his rocky journey losing his vision at 32 years old and struggling with alcoholism, how to lead belay blind, and hear some surprising stories about run-ins with famous climbers that he doesn’t know because he can’t “watch” climbing content.
Guest links:
Chaz’s Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:58 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2;27 - Intro/healing from surgery
7:49 - Chaz's impairment and how he started climbing
13:16 - Losing sight later in life
26:16 - Lead belaying blind
36:21 - Visually impaired climbing without a caller
38:07 - First time competition climbing...getting dumped...bro code broken?!
43:25 - Climbing + calling with Alannah Yip
46:37 - Accidental run-ins with the most famous comp climbers
52:38 - Lack of accessibility with climbing content
57:17 - Feeling unsafe on the wall
1:03:24 - Hiding his disability
1:07:37 - 2028 Paralympics
1:14:54 - Climbing blindfolded
1:18:02 - Me complaining about outdoor climbing + why he loves outdoor climbing
1:23:42 - Playing blind hockey
1:25:59 - More of me complaining about outdoor climbing + what is real climbing
1:28:57 - Blind ice climbing
1:3…
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Ep 37: Tijl Smitz - POLITICS in the IFSC
24 maart 2025 · 1 uur 4 min
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Tijl is currently the IFSC Europe president but he is now running for the president of IFSC with elections taking place in April. In this episode, we’ll learn about how IFSC politics works, hear about the changes he wants to make within the IFSC, and get his take on some hot topic issues like national federation quotas, RED-S testing, and the NEOM games.
Guest links:
Tijl’s Instagram
Reference links:
Info on elections and candidates
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:16 - Climbing, coaching, and IFSC history
5:50 - Coaching the Belgian team
10:56 - How IFSC Presidency works
15:11 - Moving on from the Olympics
18:53 - Changes Tijl wants to see in the IFSC
24:43 - Increasing funding through Eurosport and routesetter education
33:25 - HOT TOPIC: Big names taking a break from world cups
38:38 - HOT TOPIC: New national federation quotas for world cups
41:38 - HOT TOPIC: RED-S Policy Implementation
48:20 - HOT TOPIC: NEOM Games
50:15 - DISCORD Q: What changes do you think we'll see to the World Cup format?
56:40 - DISCORD Q: Plastic vs rock preference?
1:00:47 - Words of wisdom + where to find Tijl
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Ep 36: Gregor Vezonik - RETIRING From Comp Climbing
10 maart 2025 · 1 uur 22 min
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Gregor was a boulder & lead climber from team Slovenia but he recently retired a few months ago from competitions. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the powerful Slovenian team, how he made the decision to retire and all the planning around it, what it’s like climbing with Janja, and we get to hear him geek out about holds and hold shaping.
Guest links:
Gregor’s Instagram
Reference links:
Gregor’s hold brand
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:08 - Spray wall noob questions
5:34 - Feeling competitive against his brother
10:45 - Why Slovenia is so dominant at climbing
17:13 - Slovenian team training and funding
19:36 - Slovenian young guns to watch out for
21:21 - Career highlights and traveling
25:35 - Being a picky eater on the road
27:57 - Competing with migraines
30:55 - Making the decision to retire
37:52 - How to be okay with "getting weaker"
42:14 - Setting vs competing
45:43 - IFSC setting aspirations
47:55 - What is hold shaping
52:52 - Do we really need more holds?
55:40 - IG Q: what's your creative process for designing a new hold?
1:02:23 - Hot takes on hold shaping and no tex
1:06:30 - Discord Q: How do you see World Cup routesetting changing in the next 10 years?
1:10:18 - DISCORD Q: Does hold shaping inspire your setting more or vice versa?
1:11:41 - DISCORD Q: What's it like climbing with Jan…
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Ep 35: Anna Apel - PRESSURE and Expectations as a Young Climber
17 februari 2025 · 59 min
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Anna is a boulder & lead climber from team Germany and one of the younger athletes I’ve interviewed so far as she still competed in youth world champs last year. In this episode, we’ll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the pressure of expectations after FLASHING all qualis boulders in Innsbruck, and we get some insight into team Germany.
Guest links:
Anna’s Instagram
Reference links:
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
3:50 - Starting climbing at 3!
8:18 - Competing in youth and Senior Circuit at the same time
12:27 - Youth setting vs senior setting
14:42 - Big performance boost in 2024
17:23 - Flashing all Innsbruck quails boulders
22:22 - Why younger climbers dominate the WC circuit
25:09 - German national team
30:04 - German military sponsorship
34:04 - 2025 season
36:19 - Finding out if the combined format will be in LA 2028
39:05 - Non-climbing hobbies + sewing!
42:23 - Outdoor projects
43:28 - IG Q: What is the hardest part of being an athlete?
49:06 - IG Q: Tips on improving arm strength
50:27 - IG Q: Where can I buy the Germany down jacket?
51:12 - IG Q: Non-climbing related goal
52:58 - IG Q: Thoughts on the minimum BMI requirement
57:29 - Outro and where to find Anna
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Ep 34: Rodrigo Hanada - From CHUBBY to World Cup Climber?!
3 februari 2025 · 1 uur 8 min
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Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindset tips he uses while competing.
Guest links:
Rodrigo’s Instagram
Reference links:
Brazilian Hold Brand - Crux
Night Moves - Outdoor Brazilian Climbing
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:29 - Starting climbing only 8 years ago!
7:24 - How to mentally recover from knee injury
10:38 - The importance of hold and movement exposure
13:57 - Living in Australia
16:38 - Competing in Prague with a knee brace
21:45 - The difficulties of climbing hard in South America
25:31 - Brazil climber funding
30:19 - Climbing scene in Brazil
36:15 - Thoughts on the upcoming 2025 Brazil WC
39:27 - Mindset and overcoming being a "weaker" climber
48:43 - Once a fat kid, always a fat kid
51:47 - Discord Q: Top 3 slab tips
56:13 - Discord Q: Thoughts on limiting country participation? Does it actually help smaller nations?
1:02:20 - Discord Q: Outdoor climbing projects in Brazil?
1:05:19 - S/O to South American climbers and where to find Rodrigo
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Ep 33: Niki & Jake - Routesetting + Hold HOT TAKES
20 januari 2025 · 1 uur 27 min
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Niklas Wiechmann and Jake Mason are routesetters from "Another Setting Podcast" but you may already be familiar with them because Niki was my FIRST ever podcast guest and you are probably familiar with Jake from the Bouldering Bobats. In this episode, we absolutely TRASH US gym hold selection and setting, they give their opinions on worldwide setting styles, comp formats, and moves to LEAVE BEHIND in 2024, and we discuss freelance vs world cup routesetter pay.
Guest links:
“Another Setting Podcast”
Niki’s Youtube
Jake’s Youtube
Niki’s Instagram
Jake’s Instagram
Reference links:
The hold that doesn’t need to exist
Routesetting workshops through Frankenjura Academy
Dockmasters 2025 - January
Studiobloc masters 2025 - March
Quarryman
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:29 - Stretching!
5:36 - The bromance + getting into setting
10:23 - Settings trends in each country
15:10 - TRASHING hold selection in US gyms
24:54 - Lack of style in world cups
32:26 - Setting for Brawl on the Wall
42:28 - Fun experimental comp formats
48:08 - Niki's setting future + Frankenjura academy
52:58 - How will setting innovate?
57:12 - STOP setting these moves and START setting these!
1:01:41 - World Cup setter dreams or freelancing + pay
1:09:04 - Another Setting Podcast
1:11:57 - Discord Q: Why is it rare to find footwork-intensive cli…
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Ep 32: Andy McVittie - Evolution of Climbing Injuries in Competition
6 januari 2025 · 1 uur 42 min
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Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we’ll hear about why he thinks fingers are strong enough.
Guest links:
Website
Instagram
Reference links:
Frontiers | Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers
Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing | BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine
Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review - PubMed
David Barrans IFSC History
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:17 - Holidays
4:22 - Getting into climbing, coaching, PT
11:31 - Evolution of climbing injuries over time
19:24 - Is there any competition move that's too dangerous?
26:59 - Shoulders, hanging and catching one arm moves
36:11 - Fingers are strong enough!!
40:55 - World Cup climbers using KT tape, metal stickers, ice packs
51:14 - MYTH: Climbing ability declines as you age
1:03:00 - MYTH: Injuries h…
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Ep 31: Oceana Mackenzie - Shingles at the Olympics?!
9 december 2024 · 1 uur 13 min
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"She goes by Oce" is a boulder and lead climber from Australia! She's had an amazing 2024 season with her first world cup boulder medal in Prague, and also recently competed in her 2nd Olympics. In this episode, we'll learn about how she battled THREE health issues while competing in the Paris olympics, how Paris compared to Tokyo, her training with team Switzerland and making lead climbing gains, and her (thankfully far in the future) plans for retirement.
Guest links:
Instagram
Tiktok
Reference links:
Anime Recommendation
K-drama Recommendation
Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
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Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:19 - MadRock Shoutout!!
2:06 - Post-season break
4:09 - Being away from home for 6 months/Switzerland coaching
9:18 - Starting out climbing with the family
12:24 - Birth order stereotypes
15:16 - Shingles in Paris
19:23 - Meeting other Olympians but not Raygun
21:13 - How Olympic finals felt compared to qualis
27:06 - Comparing Paris to Tokyo Olympics
36:12 - Being emotional on camera
38:44 - Top athletes being gone from 2024 WC season
40:17 - Making lead climbing gains
45:18 - Winning her first WC medal
51:24 - Competition schedule preference
54:59 - Brisbane Olympics and future retirement plans
57:52 - Discord Q: how do you navigate a vegan diet while traveling for comps
59:09…
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Ep 30: Tom Greenall - Ex-GB Head Coach Facing Public Backlash
11 november 2024 · 1 uur 36 min
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Tom is team GB’s ex-head coach! He personally coached Shauna Coxsey into getting her Tokyo Olympic ticket and has worked with the rest of team GB up until he left the national team earlier this year in April. In this episode, we'll learn about why he’s banned from the USA, the strategy for getting Shauna to qualify for the Olympics, and the politics and public backlash he faced working in the circuit that led to his eventual resignation.
There is an EXTRA FULL-LENGTH EPISODE available with Tom on Patreon available to members only: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Email
Reference links:
Wedge Climbing
Janja Unfiltered Period Talk
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro/Recovering from knee surgery
5:49 - Starting climbing + competing + coaching
10:20 - How he got BANNED from the USA
13:18 - How to get into coaching now
18:57 - Thoughts on Instagram coaching + current training philosophies
25:50 - Coaching Shauna Coxsey into the Olympics
34:15 - Why Team GB found such great form in 2024
37:12 - What makes Toby and Erin stand out from the rest
39:12 - Difference between coaching individually vs acting as head coach
40:56 - How GB training camps work
44:30 - Athlete consistency during comps + period cycles
53:45 - Why he quit as head coach of GB
1:01:32 - Dealing with a toxic climbing community
1:08:38 - The most difficult parts of coaching
1:10:56 - Favorite/least favorite travel moments on the…
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Ep 29: Sofya Yokoyama - How Puberty and Eating Changes Climbing
28 oktober 2024 · 1 uur 25 min
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Sofya is a boulderer on team Switzerland and she’s part of the wave of OG climbing Youtubers! In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague, we get some insight into team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues, and she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame it.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Youtube
Reference links:
Weight Vest Video
Training App
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Reflections on Prague WC
6:05 - Climbing + Competing start
7:58 - Worldwide childhood and origins of her accent
10:52 - Boulderer getting into lead training?
15:40 - The "no expectations" comp trick
19:55 - Slab is the enemy
22:10 - Being a short climber
26:08 - Training schedule
30:03 - Team Switzerland transformation
31:42 - Swiss athlete funding
35:23 - Money and YouTube
41:41 - Behind the scenes of Youtube
43:31 - Climbing with a weight vest controversy?
48:19 - Climbing, puberty, and eating disorders
54:47 - Bulking & cutting?
1:04:04 - The pro comp climbing dating scene
1:08:47 - Training with Nicolai
1:10:48 - Favorite hobby is...escape rooms?!
1:12:54 - Future goals & being born in the 1900s
1:18:55 - Shoutout from Tom Greenall
1:19:27 - Discord statement: calling Sofya by the wrong name
1:19:51 - Discord Q: Who's your favorite YouTub…
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Ep 28: Stanley & Zulazfar - The Pressure on IFSC Judges
14 oktober 2024 · 2 uur 2 min
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Another double-guest episode! Stanley is an IFSC event delegate and judge chair, while Zul is officially a newly minted IFSC judge. In this episode, we’ll talk about how to become an IFSC judge, hear about their relationships and interactions with athletes and coaches, and we’ll hear some crazy stories about their judging experiences under pressure and cancelling events due to rain like in Keqiao.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Stanley’s Instagram
Zul’s Instagram
Reference links:
Appeal against Sorato during Boulder Finals at SLC 2023
Appeal Form
Stickman (Implied beta) on M1 Boulder Finals at SLC 2023
Bee incident during Speed Finals at SLC 2023
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Getting back from Paris Olympics
7:31 - Their IFSC Roles
12:35 - Why become an IFSC judge?
20:34 - How to become an IFSC judge
23:46 - The pressure of judging at the IFSC level
26:51 - Being taken advantage of by coaches
31:09 - Messing up an appeal in Salt Lake City
38:44 - Things route setters do that judges HATE
49:19 - The appeals process
53:55 - Judge relationship with coaches
1:01:27 - Giving athletes yellow cards
1:14:06 - Fixing the weather
1:17:28 - Performing a skit at the World Cup opening ceremony
1:20:59 - Why is the rain issue never fixed?
1:26:58 - Belayer protest walk-out & other crazy stories
1:35:56 - Things to be improved in the IF…
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Ep 27: Jesse Grupper - Competing at the Olympics Injured
30 september 2024 · 1 uur 16 min
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Jesse is a boulder + lead climber (mostly lead climber) from the USA who is fresh from the Olympics! In this episode, he walks us through his entire Olympics experience, from training through his first ever finger injury, to balancing training with his engineering job, to meeting other athletes in the Olympic village.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Protect Our Winters
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Post-Olympics travels
7:04 - Climbing and competing start
9:41 - Youth training + competition
12:39 - Wanting to work as an engineer
17:55 - Only getting 1 shot on a World Cup lead route
20:52 - Slipping on the Olympics semis lead route
23:12 - Boulder mindset as a lead climber
26:11 - Olympics Combined format strategy
29:42 - Finger injury leading up to the Olympics
35:34 - Olympics training with a hurt finger
42:41 - Olympics village experience - feeling like a real athlete
47:17 - Dealing with post-Olympic blues
51:22 - Goals post-Olympics
52:55 - LA 2028 plans
58:52 - Protect our Winters work
1:04:35 - Discord Q: Why does it seem like you're friends with every climber on the circuit?! (And a discussion on competitiveness)
1:10:03 - Discord Q: Professional and climbing career intersection?
1:12:35 - Final thoughts: Voting and memes, where to find Jesse
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Ep 26: Olga Niemiec - Setting the Olympic Boulders
16 september 2024 · 1 uur 17 min
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Olga is an official IFSC routesetter, and she recently came back from Paris, where she helped set the Olympic boulder rounds. In this episode, we'll learn about what it takes to become an IFSC setter, what it was like setting at the Olympics and trying to make the rounds fair, and how she balances setting, training, and traveling all while being a single mother.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Boulder + Lead routesetting guidelines and point distribution goals
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Break after Paris
2:35 - Climbing since childhood and being a team kid
5:36 - Almost an Olympic snowboarder...
7:28 - First time routesetting...was at an international comp
16:26 - Becoming an IFSC routesetter
20:09 - Setting for boulder vs lead
21:57 - Dealing with the boulder setting guidelines
26:06 - Trying to balance boulder vs lead difficulty at the Olympics
35:36 - Height and route setting - The Ai Mori problem
39:38 - Setting for men vs women
42:30 - Setting for future Olympics?
46:54 - Raising 2 little climbers
48:26 - Competing again after giving birth
53:21 - Hospitalizations in Budapest and Paris
55:54 - Balancing training, traveling, motherhood
57:47 - Non-climbing activities and snowboarding
1:02:08 - Discord Q: How do you deal with negative setting comments?
1:07:31 - Discord Q: Should the 2 zone f…
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Ep 25: Allen Lactaoen - "Average" Climber to IFSC Athlete
2 september 2024 · 1 uur 39 min
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I know Allen from our climbing training class in San Diego, but he is also a boulderer for a brand new IFSC federation, Team Guam. In this episode, we'll learn about what it’s like competing on the world cup circuit as an “average” climber who only started climbing at 23 years old and works a full time engineering job. We’ll also hear about what it’s like as a NEW competitor competing in Innsbruck including the afterparties, and all about the Guam climbing scene.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Climbing Gems Bag
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Our climbing sesh
2:57 - Starting climbing at 23 years old
6:59 - Why he started comp climbing at 29 years old
11:15 - Wanting to bring climbing back to Guam
19:01 - Being a weekend warrior
24:14 - Current training + work balance
29:43 - Never having a personal coach
32:27 - First World Cup experience in Innsbruck
38:31 - The difficulty going to a WC alone
45:23 - What people do in ISO for 8 hours
51:09 - Thoughts while taking on his first WC Boulder
54:07 - Least favorite comp moment
57:02 - Innsbruck afterparty
59:37 - Favorite comp moment
1:05:40 - Climbing Gems chalk bag
1:10:13 - Where is Guam
1:13:02 - Guam climbing scene
1:23:53 - Discord Q: What made you decide to participate in world cups as an average climber?
1:30:15 - Discord Q: Are you going to al…
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Ep 24: Madison Richardson - Competitiveness + Marrying a Teammate
19 augustus 2024 · 1 uur 32 min
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Madison is a boulderer for Team Canada and you may have seen her Youtube videos with her husband Zach on their channel, Richardsons Climbing. In this episode, we'll learn about the issues the Canadian climbing team faces such as not having a head coach, her “lose” streak when it comes to Canadian nationals, Youtube and deleting social media, and we’ll get her take on getting married young and relationships among climbers.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Youtube
Reference links:
Ditching Social Media Blog Post
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - The never-ending 2024 season
6:11 - Climbing + competing start
7:53 - Losing interest in lead climbing
16:37 - Current training program
19:43 - Moving to Germany and then back to Canada
26:42 - Canada's funding struggle/lack of coaching
33:31 - Canadian geographical difficulties
37:26 - Discord Q: What obstacles will Canadian climbers need to overcome with Alannah and Sean retiring?
39:32 - Comparison, competitive mindset, and the nationals curse
44:00 - Deleting all social media
49:31 - Social media and sponsorships
55:11 - Making the exception for Youtube
1:02:26 - Getting married young to another climber
1:08:06 - Siblings or dating?!
1:10:30 - Take on relationships between World Cup climbers
1:14:39 - Competitiveness within the relationship
1:21:40 - Relationship with Alannah …
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Ep 23: Sebastian Depke - Getting Paraclimbing Into the Paralympics
5 augustus 2024 · 1 uur 37 min
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Sebastian is a German paraclimber. He is also the chair of the paraclimbing commission, and he worked on filing the application to get climbing into the Paralympics for LA 2028, which only recently got approved! In this episode, we'll learn about his journey accepting that his disease would affect his body and climbing forever, what the process was like for getting climbing into the Paralympics, the drama behind the paraclimbing classification process, and we talk about his harrowing 1000km journey to the Innsbruck world cup on just a solar hand bike.
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Guest links:
Instagram
Youtube
Reference links:
IFSC Classification Information
FAQ Video on the bike
Short teaser about the handbike
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Getting into climbing/paraclimbing
9:43 - Learning to live with ankylosing spondylitis
23:58 - Applying for paraclimbing to become a Paralympic sport
35:25 - Onsighting the Paralympic application and beating out surfing
39:53 - What sport classes will be in the Paralympics
44:51 - Requirements paraclimbing must fulfill to participate in the Olympics
49:55 - Classification drama
58:07 - How classification works
1:05:15 - The difficult job of classifiers: fluctuating impairments
1:09:25 - Funding his climbing
1:13:07 - And the solar hand bike was born
1:28:50 - Proudest outdoor climbing achievement
1:3…
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Ep 22: Noah Makaiwi - Hidden Heroes: Volunteer Belayers
15 juli 2024 · 1 uur 38 min
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Noah is the Assistant National Belay Coordinator of USA Climbing and has volunteer belayed at events nationally and internationally at IFSC youth worlds in 2022. In this episode, we'll learn about how to get into volunteer belaying, some interesting tidbits on belay devices and catching falls that you may not have thought about before, what the differences are belaying different paraclimbers, and some bad falls that he has had to witness.
NEW PATREON: www.patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing
Guest links:
Instagram
USA Belay Instagram
Reference links:
First draw falls at USA Team Trails
Belay shoe clip incident mentioned from Discord
Leg caught in rope Youth Worlds
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
To help support the podcast, you can become a Patreon member: patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Getting into climbing and belaying
8:43 - Any certifications needed to volunteer belay?
14:53 - Belay devices
21:01 - Climbers falling + getting lowered at the same time
23:34 - Do you get paid to belay?
25:58 - Belayer prep for a comp
37:03 - Do athletes ever get to choose their belayer?
48:29 - NO belay glasses?!
51:49 - Differences between youth, elite, para
1:00:28 - Tandem belaying in paraclimbing
1:03:01 - Nervousness while belaying
59:22 - Team boulder arena com
1:08:46 - Climber interactions
1:11:11 - Bad falls during comps
1:17:06 - How to become an IFSC belayer
1:21:13 - Discord Q: Common bad practices belayers need to stop doing
1:26:52 - Discord Q: Have you ever had to remove a volunteer belayer?
1:29:54 - Discord Q: Have peopled ever submitte…
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Ep 21: Ross Fulkerson - Mindset and Meditation Masterclass
1 juli 2024 · 2 uur 19 min
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Ross is a boulder and lead climber on Team USA and you may be familiar with his Youtube channel where he documents his climbing adventures and shares coaching tips. In this episode, we'll learn about his bikepacking adventure that he skipped the first half of the 2024 world cup season for, hear about his struggle trying to balance competitions with his desire to travel and all his other hobbies, the importance of mindset and meditation, and if you're a USA bay area gym climber, maybe close your ears when he starts trashing the bay area gym scene. This episode is full of training and mindset tips!
NEW PATREON: www.patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing
Guest links:
Instagram
Youtube
Mind to Motion Clinics
Reference links:
How to Train/Stay Fit While Traveling
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
To help support the podcast, you can become a Patreon member: patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro/Going over my experience competing in Vail
3:35 - Absolutely TRASHING California Bay Area gyms
11:38 - Why Ross didn't attend the first few 2024 world cups
13:15 - Insane bikepacking adventure
20:16 - What makes going to a World Cup worth it
25:10 - How Ross got into climbing
34:52 - Class5 Climbing Team
42:58 - The importance of who you climb with
44:58 - Struggle balancing travel desires + competition
49:16 - Hometown advantage makes a BIG difference
55:12 - Climbing training tip: strength training staircase
59:22 - Team boulder arena comp
1:04:48 - Mindset: How to turn around negative thoughts
1:08:51 - Fixing his SLC finals mindset
1:15:39 - Meditation for …
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Ep 20: Erin McNeice - Finding Sudden Success on the Senior Circuit
28 mei 2024 · 1 uur 7 min
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Erin is a boulder and lead climber from team GB who has been having a stellar 2024 season so far, making finals for boulder in Keqiao, lead in Wujiang, and getting bronze in Shanghai OQS! In this episode, we’ll get some insight into how she seemed to rise out of nowhere, her brutal off-season training, we’ll learn a bit about team GB, and stay for the end to hear about where the Erin McBeast nickname came from.
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Keqiao Boulder Finals Difficult Paddle
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro/Rest after Shanghai OQS
2:52 - Starting climbing + skateboarding
9;12 - Her dad’s gymnastics/climbing background
11:29 - Jumping without bending your knees
13:26 - Climbing preferences, strengths, weaknesses
15:53 - Traveling for climbing experience
17:36 - Team GB training process
21:48 - Finding incredible form this season
26:25 - Taking on a less serious mindset
34:06 - Training goal setting
35:41 - Difficulty maintaining friendships through training
39:45 - Competing against your idols
42:43 - GB Climbing Funding
44:59 - Need for sponsorship
46:33 - Handling the quick OQS -> Olympics turnaround time
49:28 - Future climbing goals
50:55 - Planetology interests
53:20 - Living in Malaysia
56:11 - Erin McBeast origin story
57:29 - ISO activities
59:28 - Discord Q: Did you ever had doubts in wanting to become a pro climber?
1:02:30 - Discord Q: Training at home vs abroad
1:03:59 - Discord Q: Do you do any other sports? Is cross-training benef…