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70 afleveringen, van nieuw naar oud
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Ep 19: Eddie Fowke - Tales from years on the IFSC circuit
14 mei 2024 · 2 uur 47 min
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Eddie is an ex-IFSC photographer, who worked with them from 2014-2020. In this episode, we’ll get his thoughts on the ethics and purpose of photojournalism, hear about the chaos behind the scenes traveling around for world cups, and discuss ideas on how to get athletes better paid.
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Vail triangle pose
Mia Krampl Koper incident
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro/The great photographer race
13:31 - Comp background + injury
16:29 - Starting photography
24:53 - Becoming a professional photographer
31:36 - IFSC freelance employment only
34:23 - Photography itself is a competitive sport
38:46 - Azerbaijan comp disaster
46:45 - Strange historical US comp scoring
50:30 - IFSC scoring, bringing back 4+ min
57:47 - The importance + difficulty of commentary
1:05:49 - Are there too many photographers?
1:15:20 - Demeaning athlete posing
1:17:55 - Behind the scenes portrait chaos
1:20:48 - Youth climber dating distractions...
1:23:34 - Climbers under RED-S pressure
1:32:19 - Photographing athletes in vulnerable moments
1:39:25 - Photojournalism + variety
1:41:55 - Mia Krampl Koper Incident
1:43:32 - “Losers” in sport
1:51:10 - Pro comp climbers after retirement
1:55:23 - Comparing climbing to disc golf
1:59:03 - Ways to fix athlete funding
2:06:22 - The fall of comp climbing?
2:21:35 - Discord Q: Could/should there be an alternative to IFSC?
2:23:36 - Olympics hatred
2:33:21 - Discord Q: Differences between comp climbing vs outdoo…
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Ep 18: Chloé Caulier - Belgian Bouldering and being a Muscular Climber!
22 april 2024 · 1 uur 10 min
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Chloé is a boulder and lead climber competing in the world cup circuit for the Belgian team! This is my first time talking to a Belgian climber, so in this episode we’ll learn a lot about their fairly newly established national team and how funding works, and we also talk about body image with being a more muscular climber, as well as the difficulties that come with being a female climber.
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Master of Fire Competition
Team Boulder Arena (Competition w/ Stasa)
Charlotte de Witte
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction/China stress
3:35 - Going into simulation
6:50 - Climbing beginnings
10:39 - Transitioning from youth to senior circuit
12:31 - Favorite discipline
17:44 - Training with dad vs. with the Belgian team
23:05 - Training with male athletes
27:31 - Does the Belgian team train together?
31:36 - Belgian athlete funding
34:01 - Gaining strength too easily
40:03 - Body image
44:27 - Being the only woman on the Belgian team
49:32 - Training with Stasa
58:06 - Machismo in the climbing gym
1:03:02 - 2024 goals
1:04:32 - Discord Q: Are there any language difficulties within team Belgium?
1:06:16 - Discord Q: What do you do in isolation?
1:07:28 - Discord Q: What kind of music do you listen to?
1:09:32 - Where to find Chloé
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Ep 17: Charlie Boscoe - Leaving IFSC Commentary
1 april 2024 · 1 uur 33 min
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Charlie is a broadcaster and writer who preceded Matt Groom as an IFSC commentator and EpicTV host. In this episode, we’ll learn about his rough start to IFSC commentating in 2016, ways that he thinks the IFSC could improve competitions, and get some insight into what it’s like traveling around with athletes. He also shares his unique story about traveling to North Korea!
Guest links:
Website
Reference links:
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction/giving some love to North America
8:59 - Kicking IFSC's door in for a job
14:25 - Hardest year: 2016 commentary
18:02 - A trip to North Korea
26:21 - Improving IFSC Production
31:42 - Charlie's biggest commentary mistakes
37:51 - Repetitive Commentary
43:42 - The handoff to Matt Groom
46:23 - Why he left IFSC
51:03 - Post-IFSC work
52:50 - What it's like traveling around with climbers
56:40 - Dirtbag vs serious pro climbers
1:07:12 - Ideas to make competitions more entertaining to watch
1:13:18 - Secret beef between climbers?!
1:18:16 - Discord Q: What changes would you like to see for comps/broadcasting?
1:20:47 - Discord Q: Get Rid of ISO?
1:23:03 - Discord Q: How could IFSC grow the sport?
1:30:44 - Where to find Charlie
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Ep 16: Cloe Coscoy - Gym Climbing Rocks!
18 maart 2024 · 1 uur 26 min
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Cloe is a French/American boulderer who has competed for team USA in the international youth and elite circuit. In this episode, we’ll learn about how she “accidentally” ended up competing in lead world cups, the difficulties of trying to make it onto a highly competitive US national team, and we give some love to good old gym climbing and plastic pulling!
Guest links:
Cloe’s Instagram
Reference links:
La Puissance song rec
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction/preparing for team trials
5:45 - Cloe’s relatively late climbing start
10:41 - Training in France
16:37 - Accidentally become a World Cup lead climber
24:56 - Transitioning from youth to adult circuit
31:09 - What impacts performace - MAKE SOME NOISE!!
34:21 - Feeling insecure climbing with teammates
37:44 - Disappointing 2023 season
42:53 - Concussion troubles
48:26 - My Soapbox: everyone try a head spa!
49:22 - Gym climbing is the best climbing
52:22 - Being in the IFSC commentary box
54:38 - Crushing at every local competition
57:00 - How amateurs can improve at comp climbing
1:02:40 - Coaching endeavors
1:08:07 - Cross-sport skills
1:13:48 - Discord Q: Benefits vs downsides of competing for the USA
1:17:29 - Discord Q: Unhinged stories living in the Powerhouse with Cece and Quinn?
1:19:28 - Discord Q: Why French rap?
1:21:57 - Discord Q: How does training with friends impact you?
1:24:34 - Where to find Cloe
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Ep 15: Tyler Norton - Commiserating on Climbing Podcasting
5 maart 2024 · 1 uur 30 min
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Tyler is a fellow competition climbing nerd and podcaster, who has been involved in the space much longer than I have, and you may be familiar with his channel, Plastic Weekly! In this episode, we’ll talk about what it’s like MCing at a world cup, commiserate on the hardships that come with climbing podcasting, go over some climbing HOT TAKES, and talk about the upcoming 2024 season!
Guest links:
Tyler’s Instagram
Plastic Weekly IG
Plastic Weekly Youtube
Reference links:
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
1:15 - Intro + gym experience
7:16 - MCing and commentating at world cups
13:35 - Beginnings of Plastic Weekly Podcast
17:31 - Starting The Debrief series with John Burgman
20:52 - Commiserating on highlights and lowlights of podcasting
30:36 - Competition hot take: GOAT is overused
42:09 - Hot take: Get rid of isolation?
48:29 - People don't care about the overall title anymore?
55:00 - NEOM games environmental impact
1:01:35 - IFSC's new RED-S Policy
1:05:54 - 2024 season predictions
1:13:14 - Olympic favorites
1:18:54 - Discord Q: Is there an absence of climbing media?
1:24:19 - Discord Q: Are gyms are good place to start climbing careers?
1:29:04 - Where to find Tyler
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Ep 14: Cody Grodzki - Reading Routesetter Hate Comments
20 februari 2024 · 2 uur 54 min
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Cody is the USA national chief routesetter, and in the 2023 IFSC season he had the opportunity to set boulders in Hachioji, Prague, Innsbruck, and the Bern world champs! In this episode, we’ll watch him read Youtube hate comments, and we’ll learn about the differences between IFSC vs USA vs commercial routesetting, as well as hear about a crazy cool gym that he will be opening up soon.
Guest links:
Cody’s Instagram
Syndicate Routesetting
Reference links:
Reel: Routesetting Testing vs Athletes Hachioji
Boulder Union - Climbing gym
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
2:06 - Starting climbing + routesetting at the same time
12:58 - Juggling firefighting and setting
19:03 - How he started setting for the world cups
28:26 - Favorite World Cup wall to set on
31:08 - Hate comment: Hachioji too hard
43:44 - Hate comment: Hachioji did the setters have too much free time?
46:21 - Hate comment: Hachioji should setters be able to top their boulders?
51:37 - Hate comment: Prague M4/V4
55:44 - Hate comment: Prague calibrating difficulty of static climbing
57:43 - Why Oriane won Prague instead of Janja
31:48 - Differences setting for mens vs women climbing
1:01:30 - Hate comment: Innsbruck height comments
1:15:00 - Bern: How would Janja fare on a men's course?
1:18:28 - Innsbruck: Resetting a whole boulder before the comp
1:26:37 - The future of IFSC setting evolution
1:32:05 - Lower body coordination moves
1:37:17 - Feeling self conscious among athletes and setters
1:4…
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Ep 13: Carlie LeBreton - Paraclimbing World Champs Setting
5 februari 2024 · 1 uur 3 min
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Carlie is the FIRST female chief setter at an IFSC world championship, where she led a team of 5 to set the world paraclimbing championships in Bern 2023! She has been climbing for over 20 years and setting for almost just as long, so she has a lot of experience. In this episode, we’ll learn about all the things you have to keep in mind when setting world championship routes for paraclimbers, what it’s like in the routesetting scene as a female setter, and what it’s like owning a climbing gym.
Guest links:
Carlie’s Instagram
Reference links:
Bern 2023 RP1 route
IFSC Para Routesetting Guidelines
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
1:18 - Tummy trubble
4:10 - Starting climbing through school
9:04 - How she became a paraclimbing setter
11:09 - IFSC rules for paraclimbing setting
14:46 - How to handle asymmetrical disabilities?
16:32 - How to merge different paraclimbing classifications onto the same route
20:26 - How para routes are forerun
22:22 - Setting a route that did not work out as expected
25:25 - How setters can get into paraclimbing setting
26:42 - Breaking into routesetting as a woman 20 years ago
31:48 - Differences setting for mens vs women climbing
36:08 - Carlie's setting style
37:37 - How motherhood impacted climbing + setting
43:23 - Being a gym owner
49:09 - My dream gym
50:34 - Discord Q: Did you feel unconscious bias against you as a female setter?
52:54 - Discord Q: Do setters get "writer's block"?
54:41 - Discord Q: How often do you thin…
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Ep 12: Anita Aggarwal + Christiane Luttikhuizen - World Cup Paraclimbing
22 januari 2024 · 1 uur 57 min
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Anita Aggarwal and Christiane Luttikhuizen are paraclimbers who have competed in world cups as part of the RP3 sports class. RP3 is a classification for limited reach, power or stability. In this episode, we’ll learn about what it’s like climbing with a disability, the difficulties dealing with classification and class merging, whether or not the IFSC does a good job with accommodations, and the possibility of joining the Paralympics in LA 2028.
Guest links:
Anita’s Instagram
Christiane’s Instagram
Reference links:
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
1:15 - Holiday debrief
4:36 - How they got into climbing
6:01 - Explanation of paraclimbing categories
8:39 - Christiane's disability
10:07 - Anita's disability
12:05 - Classification + merging
24:31 - Getting de-classified and re-classified
30:17 - Managing fatigue + injury with competitions
39:38 - How to join a paraclimbing team
44:56 - History of paraclimbing
47:54 - Paraclimbing formats, potentially lead or bouldering?
50:33 - Paraclimbing route setting
57:49 - Logistical issues and isolation insanity
1:00:57 - Has the IFSC been good at accommodating paraclimbers?
1:08:37 - Funding for paraclimbers
1:16:23 - Not feeling disabled enough
1:20:05 - How it feels to climb a para route
1:25:18 - Matt Groom fan club
1:28:41 - Anita on being an older competitor (50+)
1:34:49 - Paralympics in LA 2028?
1:41:26 - Discord Q: Are there any paraclimbers who do speed climbing?
1:43:34 - Discord Q: Should there be mor…
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Ep 11: Staša Gejo - A look into isolation
8 januari 2024 · 1 uur 50 min
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Stasa is a boulder and lead climber (specializing in boulder) from Serbia who has been competing in international cups since 2011 as a youth climber. Most recently, she took the silver medal in the Laval European Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll learn about Serbian funding in the sport and OQS, we’ll get a glimpse into what bouldering isolation is like, hear some tales from the commentary booth, and hear her reflect on the 2023 season.
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
Career highlight - EU Champs Munich 2017 Superfinal
Koper 2022 “Heel Hookers vs Toe Hookers”
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
6:46 - Stasa's early climbing start
16:09 - Growing up in a climbing family
24:45 - How does bouldering isolation work?
33:00 - Trying to calculate your competition
35:25 - Physical and emotion state between quails, semis, and finals
39:55 - Finals mental game
42:15 - Routesetting + height (being a taller competitor)
49:31 - Interest in commentating
54:52 - Embarrassing commentating moments
57:54 - Funding the Serbian climbing team
1:04:07 - Climbing scene in Serbia, climbing resources
1:07:25 - Will comp climbing be less collaborative now that there's money involved
1:10:38 - 2023 season reflection
1:15:19 - Climbers being too starstruck to talk to each other
1:18:50 - Juggling masters degree with competitions
1:22:27 - Currently binge watching...
1:25:30 - Viola/Violin Talk
1:28:21 - How OQS works
1:31:48 - Preparing for OQS
1:35:44 - Discord Q: Do you …
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Ep 10: Sam Watson - USA's Future Speed Olympian
27 november 2023 · 1 uur 20 min
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Sam is only 17 years old, yet he has already won gold at a world cup, holds the speed climbing record in the US, and recently secured his Paris 2024 Olympic ticket at the PanAm Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll get more insight into speed climbing at the highest level, his experience at the PanAm Games, how he juggles personal life, school, and climbing, and we need your help in figuring out how he can up his social media game!
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
IFSC Ones to Watch Interview
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
3:53 - When Sam started climbing
7:21 - Is there an advantage to starting speed climbing younger?
8:56 - Does speed climbing come naturally
10:15 - Surprise! Speed Climbing is an endurance sport
12:06 - PanAm Games experience
19:39 - PanAm Village experience
22:52 - World Cup season in relation to the Olympics
25:14 - Do speed climbers get injuries?
28:34 - Technical false start explanation
37:17 - Breaking sub-5 and having a “clean” run
41:51 - Strength cycle jail
47:33 - Interest in doing non-speed climbing competitions?
51:17 - Figuring out the social media game
55:10 - Juggling high school and world cups
58:22 - Non-climbing hobbies
1:03:13 - Discord Q: Does speed relays have a future?
1:05:37 - How to upload athlete info into the IFSC website
1:07:29 - Discord Q: Who are your heroes?
1:10:26 - Discord Q: Any weird speed ideas/formats to try out?
1:12:04 - Discord Q: Do you do anything weird/unique in training?
1:13:21 - D…
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Ep 9: Campbell Harrison - Australian Boulder + Lead Olympic Dreams
13 november 2023 · 1 uur 31 min
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Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Campbell represents team Australia and is one of the Oceania region’s top competitors for moving onto the Olympics in the boulder and lead combined category. He also recently got elected to the IFSC athlete’s commission, so in this episode we’ll talk about causes he’d like to champion through that, what it’s like competing as an Australian, and he also opens up about his past struggles with eating disorders, as well as why he was partially missing in Olympic qualifiers in 2020.
Guest links:
Instagram
Reference links:
The scariest comp fall EVER
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
3:13 - Past commentating experience
7:46 - When Campbell first started climbing and competing
10:17 - Transitioning from youth to adult
15:14 - Growth as a climber
19:17 - Recent Australian Boulder Nationals results!
25:19 - The difficulties of being an Australian climber
31:40 - Thoughts on how to grow the Australian team
35:44 - What is the IFSC athlete’s commission
39:00 - Causes to fight for in athlete’s commission
44:00 - The issue of unfair routesetting
48:34 - Personal experience with RED-S
59:36 - RED-S differences between male and female climbers
1:04:18 - Missing out on the 2021 Olympics
1:11:35 - Excitement about not having to speed climb
1:15:48 - Training plans after Oceania qualifiers
1:19:22 - Discord Q: Are climbers are targeted by the government in regards to aboriginal heritage?
1:23:03 - Discord Q: Thoughts on Eubank grading?
1:24:4…
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Ep 8: Matt Groom - World Cup Commentary Behind the Scenes
30 oktober 2023 · 1 uur 39 min
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Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Matt Groom is a freelance commentator best known for being the lead commentator at IFSC world cups. You may also find him hosting EpicTV Climbing Daily, writing for UKC, or commentating at other climbing competitions. There's a lot of talk online about Matt, and in this EXCLUSIVE interview we go over his response to criticism as well as his explanation for some of the mistakes caught on audio.
Guest links:
Instagram
Youtube
Reference links:
Commentary box behind the scenes video
Chaehyun Seo misclip commentary
European Championships speed finals Ukraine
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
3:50 - Not an IFSC employee
7:20 - Journey to becoming the IFSC commentator
13:24 - What does the commentators box look like
18:08 - Behind the scenes of production/broadcast
21:47 - Finding a co-commentator
27:10 - The most difficult part of commentating
30:14 - Approaching comments and online hate
34:50 - Let's go through Matt Groom bingo!
42:25 - Trying to inform new viewers and still keep old viewers engaged
46:38 - What the IFSC does right
51:38 - The REDS hot mic incident
1:01:37 - Work outside of IFSC commentary
1:05:50 - Proudest career moment
1:10:39 - Commentating for non-IFSC broadcasts
1:13:08 - In defense of fanboying over British climbers
1:18:44 - Personal climbing goals
1:21:07 - Climbing with World Cup athletes?
1:22:17 - I just want to see Matt climb in a comp
1:24:57 - Discord: Do you get much feedback from athletes?
1…
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Ep 7: Zoe Spriggins - Organizing Climbing World Cups
16 oktober 2023 · 1 uur 31 min
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Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Zoe is a program manager for GB Climbing and is an expert in organizing and running climbing competitions! Her FIRST world cup event was Edinburgh 2022 and it was definitely…eventful. She also has experience organizing paraclimbing competitions and Bern world champs. There’s much more going on behind the scenes of climbing competitions than you’d expect, so tune in to learn more about what it takes!
Guest links: Email: zoe@thebmc.co.uk
Reference links: Contact Holds trying to retexture old holds
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
4:37 - How to get into climbing event organization
7:48 - How GB team + athletes make a living
12:33 - The Edinburgh world cup disaster
18:25 - Hopes of hosting another world cup
21:10 - What a world cup event venue looks like
26:10 - Indoor vs outdoor venues
29:45 - Do national federations get guidance from IFSC for planning world cups
31:51 - Organizing Bern world champs
35:46 - How an ice hockey arena becomes a climbing center
39:03 - Reigning in Adam Ondra
41:15 - Bern did paraclimbing right
42:23 - Organizing for paraclimbing
47:28 - Paralympics!
51:15 - Para accommodations to keep in mind
55:11 - Anti-doping in climbing
58:46 - Anti-doping testing
1:01:14 - Drug use in climbing
1:05:00 - Menopause and climbing?!
1:10:06 - DISCORD: Why host world cups?
1:14:02 - DISCORD: Environmental sustainability
1:18:56 - DISCORD: Favorite/least favorite competitions?
1:22:05 - DISCORD: Technical wall requ…
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Ep 6: Allegra Maguire - The Psychology Behind Climbing Competitions
2 oktober 2023 · 1 uur 26 min
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Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Allegra is a Youtuber, mental climbing coach, and co-founder of ClimbInFlow, which provides services for climbing mind training. She has experience coaching all types of climbers, from beginners to world cup youth athletes. She recently came home from coaching at the youth world champs in Korea, where she helped Geila Macia Martin podium in boulder and lead! Allegra has also competed a bit herself, competing in Swedish Lead Championships after only 2 years of climbing.
Guest links:
Instagram
Youtube
Psych Coaching
Reference links:
Stefano Ghisolfi Self Compassion Video
Geila Macia Martin Youth World Champs Lead Finals
Geila Macia Matin Youth World Champs Boulder Finals
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast
Join the community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp
If you're able to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
5:20 - Which climbing federations have climbing psychologists?
7:54 - How climbing mixes with psychology
13:26 - Learning self compassion from Stefano Ghisolfi
17:21 - Anyone else relate to getting motivation from lack of self compassion?
21:21 - Coaching at youth world champs
27:00 - Sunk cost fallacy in climbing
31:03 - Opportunity cost neglect in competition climbing
39:52 - Psychological differences between youth and adult climbers
41:57 - How to get over fear of falling
47:49 - Fear of injuries
53:13 - Is it worth it to overcome fear?
59:01 - Is mental coaching even important?
1:04:17 - Climbing in the Swedish Lead Championships
1:07:13 - Women in competition
1:12:09 - Gender gap in climbing
1:18:07 - No such thing as f…
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Ep 5: Albert Ok - Finding Meaning in Coaching Speed Climbing
18 september 2023 · 1 uur 30 min
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Thanks for tuning into the podcast! You may be familiar with Albert's old viral Youtube videos where he does deep-dive analyses into great comp climbing beta-break moments. Nowadays, he is spending more time working on his own training to hopefully make the USA national team, as well as working as a speed climbing coach (you're probably familiar with a lot of the speed athletes he works with!)
Guest links: https://instagram.com/professorok
https://youtube.com/@albertokay
Reference links:
First beta break episode
Albert commentating Chamonix speed finals 2023
Albert’s meme
Speed Climbing Relay Race
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
2:52 - What got you into comp climbing?
6:39 - History of comp climbing + has it improved?
10:24 - The beta break Youtube series
14:37 - Copyright issues
20:13 - World cup afterparties
22:16 - Why speed climbing?
26:08 - The difficulties of accessing a speed wall
30:03 - Becoming a speed coach
39:28 - Coaching at the world cups - imposter syndrome
45:47 - Dealing with speed wall differences at different locations
50:42 - Why are countries like Indonesia so good at speed climbing?
52:33 - Speed climber intricacies
58:46 - Speed climbing in the Olympics
1:01:52 - The Salt Lake City vision
1:03:47 - Personal speed climbing pursuit
1:09:06 - Head to toe of injuries
1:16:32 - Discord Q: What stops people from getting into speed climbing?
1:17:56 - Discord Q: Did the 2020 combined format undermine acceptance of speed climbing?
1:19:54 - Discord Q: Do you know what the outcome of the athletes commission will be for speed?
1:22:59 - Discord Q: What's in the future for speed and formats?
1:25:41 - Discord Q: What was it like to rock climb with Akiyo Niguchi?
1:28:34 - Outro + where to find Albert
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Ep 4: Grace Crowley - Pro Speed Climbing as a Non-Binary Athlete
4 september 2023 · 1 uur 3 min
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Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Grace is a speed climber on the Australian team who only started climbing in late 2015 and has been competing in world cups since 2019 at the age of 15 (only 4 years of climbing before becoming world level?!?!). Grace is also open about sharing their experience being a non-binary athlete within competitive sports.
Guest links:https://instagram.com/gracecrowlye
Reference links:Classic Speed Climbing: Video
Adidas Rockstars: YT Channel
Arco Rock Master: 2023 Duel
Psicobloc: Website
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
1:17 - Covid?!?!
3:24 - Climbing for Australia as an American
5:35 - How Grace got into climbing and competing
8:18 - Making the national team after only 4 years of climbing
12:01 - Competing in boulder vs speed
14:51 - Deciding to focus on speed
16:29 - What makes a good speed athlete?
17:20 - Bad habits that need to be broken
19:49 - How to train for speed
23:30 - Can you train without a speed wall?
27:42 - Does team Australia train together?
29:21 - 2021 Visa Nightmare
32:53 - Competing as a non-binary athlete
34:50 - Would you prefer a separate, non-gendered category?
36:52 - Do you feel accepted within the climbing community?
38:54 - Reflecting on the 2023 season
41:06 - Readiness for November competition
43:54 - How The Olympics will impact 2024 World Cups
47:37 - Upcoming goals?
48:53 - Discord Q: Has it been hard finding coaches/walls?
51:18 - Discord Q: Interest in speed bouldering?
54:40 - Discord Q: Speed climbing outdoors?
56:33 - Discord Q: Future of speed climbing + formats?
1:02:46 - Outro
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Ep 3: Jonathan Sin - Trying to Become a World Cup Climber
21 augustus 2023 · 1 uur 6 min
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You may have seen a couple of Jonathan's viral Youtube videos lately, such as I trained like a pro climber for 6 months, where he opens up about his dream of becoming a professional competition climber and documents his journey of trying to make the Hong Kong national team. His effort is all the more impressive once you find out he only started climbing in 2019 and managed to send v11 after only 2 years.
Guest links:
https://www.instagram.com/jonathan_sin88
https://www.youtube.com/@jonathan_sin88
Reference links:
Youtube video: I Trained Like a Pro Climber for 6 Months
Youtube video: How I Made the National Team (speed)
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Introduction
0:51 - Gumby to v11 in 2.5 years
3:03 - What is considered "training" for climbing?
3:55 - How did you stay mostly injury free?
7:27 - Hong Kong climbing scene
9:18 - Boulder or lead?
10:22 - Trying to become a pro climber in 6 months
14:49 - Did you have a coach? and my noob training Qs
18:56 - Why don’t you share your training plan?
21:15 - Try outs for the national team
22:42 - How much lead training did you do?
24:56 - How did you perform in lead?
28:20 - How do you rest?
31:46 - Your mental state during the competition?
34:03 - Making the national speed team
38:54 - Is there still hope for the national team in the future?
46:41 - Difference between a “normal” climber and a pro
51:50 - Why do you climb?
56:25 - Discord Q: Experience difference between you and climbers who grew up climbing
58:48 - Discord Q: How did you have the time and money to train?
1:03:46 - Outro, find him on Youtube!
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Ep 2: Maya Witters - Former world cup judge on IFSC Controversies
5 augustus 2023 · 1 uur 24 min
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Maya is an outspoken IFSC volunteer + judge currently living in Japan who has helped out with world cups in Edinburgh, Morioka, and Hachioji. She has some great behind-the-scenes context into world cups, what team Japan is like behind the wall, and she has some spicy takes on the IFSC organization (even got blocked once by their social media)…
Guest links:
https://www.instagram.com/mayasounds
Reference links:
Japanese outdoor climbers Sachi Amma (@sachiamma) and team Rokdo (@rokdo_team)
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - introduction
4:16 - why she got into volunteering
9:13 - how can other get involved in volunteering at world cups?
15:51 - downgrading Yoshiyuki for stepping on a bolt
18:02 - it’s not easy for Matt Groom
22:37 - getting blocked by IFSC on social media
25:17 - who is the IFSC?
28:20 - the IFSC’s PR problem
32:09 - has the Eurosport deal been positive?
37:22 - full time athletes and money troubles
41:28 - world cup prize money
43:43 - why does team Japan’s make-up vary so much year to year
48:04 - what makes team Japan so dominant?
54:35 - addressing routesetter flack
58:10 - how much experience do Japanese comp climbers have outdoors?
1:02:02 - thoughts on Chaehyun’s skipped clip controversy
1:08:39 - athlete quirks from isolation
1:13:33 - favorite athletes?
1:16:02 - English training for the Japanese youth team
1:18:54 - where has Kai Harada been?
1:20:07 - final thoughts, growing pains
1:23:27 - outro
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Ep 1: Niklas Wiechmann - What is REAL climbing? Setting for world cup level climbers
22 juli 2023 · 1 uur 21 min
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Thanks for tuning into the inaugural episode of the podcast! Niki is a routesetter with over 20 years of experience, setting for both commercial gyms and competitions. He’s known for setting “parkour-style” boulders that require creative movement rather than raw power. We’ll hear from him about what it’s like setting for world cup level climbers, how the IFSC chooses holds and setters, different competition formats, and how to improve the future of competition climbing. You can find the links below to follow along on his journey with BetaRoutesetting on Youtube or Instagram.
Guest links:
https://www.instagram.com/schniklas
https://www.youtube.com/@BetaRoutesetting
Reference links:
The only climbing movie to watch: Stone Monkey
Q&A video about world cup setters: Q&A
Interview with IFSC President: Marco Scolaris
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - introduction
2:25 - how he got into routesetting
4:24 - what it was like growing up within the climbing community
7:10 - learning to love climbing again
9:19 - tricky niki, the birth of parkour style climbing
11:15 - my embarrassing lack of climbing knowledge, Johnny Dawes
14:39 - response to routesetter criticism, he’s willing to fight
17:26 - how to set for an elite level climber
20:05 - are climbing moves getting too repetitive?
21:40 - existential crisis, why are people interested in watching comp climbing
25:58 - are there any unforgettable climbing moments?
29:16 - how the IFSC chooses world cup setters
35:47 - what’s missing from world cup coverage
37:38 - IFSC holds
39:00 - networking his way into the world cup
41:39 - will we see the infamous spinning wheel climbing hold in a world cup?
42:52 - setting rules that shouldn’t exist
44:44 - how setters set for climbers who can climb harder than them
51:40 - how to set for a broad skill differential, the Janja problem
55:56 - future of…
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Ep 0: Jinni, Podcast Gumby
3 juli 2023 · 1 min
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A brief description of what to expect from the That's Not Real Climbing Podcast